Golding Jobber #6 Restoration / Roller Hooks and Springs
Hi, all
I recently cleaned up the roller hooks and springs of my press. Upon inspection, I noticed that one of the springs is of the wrong diameter (although it is similar in gauge to the others). I was able to get replacement springs at a recent visit to Letterpress n Things in Chicopee but they are needing to be cut to the appropriate length. My question(s) to the group is regarding the proper length of the spring for the roller hook. The pic below shows the springs taken from the press of varying lengths but the roller hooks themselves have some variability in length as well (although not as big as the springs). I welcome any thoughts/ advice regarding spring lengths and replacement. Thank you in advance for your support!
Best,
Teresita
Rather than the actual length of the spring, it is the tension of the spring when compressed to working position that is critical. You will want the “pull of each roller hook to match the others. There can be a good deal of variability in these without having an effect on ink distribution, since the rollers are supported by the trucks at each end.
John Henry
Cedar Creek Press
The center roller hooks on each side are shorter than the top and bottom ones, and the right side hooks have little nubs (to help you remove roller) while the left side ones do not have them. The springs are quite strong, as they should be.
I replaced the roller frame and hooks on one side a couple years ago and here are my notes and pics for replacing the spring and hook. It was a little bit of work but not too hard.
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Put the roller hook in, but only about half way down to the receiving hole.
Work the spring onto the rod part of the hook. The spring is strong and uncooperative. When you get it completely onto the rod, I placed a putty knife at the bottom.
Place a second putty knife, and work the washer between the knives, centered on the rod. Remove the top knife and now the washer should be at the base of the hook rod.
Now we need to get the peg into the hole. I rotated the hook so that the hook is pointing up — this way we can push the peg in from the outside of the press, which is easier. I worked a wrench or pliers in so that the washer is pushed up exposing the hole at the base of the hook-rod. push the wedge-peg into the hole with pliers.
Now you can rotate the hook 180 degrees to normal hook-down orientation. Remove the putty knife and allow the whole hook assembly to spring down into position.
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Back to your original question (sorry!) here are pics of the roller springs on my #6. You can count the number of spring revolutions; note the top spring has another 14 revolutions inside the cylindrical ‘holder’ at left. Middle and bottom spring probably similar.
These pics were taken with the rollers at the middle of the bed — the most relaxed position for these springs which are in compression.
I was always taught to park the rollers here (middle of the bed) at the end of a job, to be easy on the roller springs.
It is important that these springs exert a very strong pull on the rollers. Otherwise you will get poor inking, like skidding or not pulled against the type. So it will take some arm strength to assemble the hook with full spring (as I outlined above) but it will be worth it for good inking in the long run.
good luck with your Jobber!
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??? For as little as $12, possibly, acquire spring balance scales and individually test all the tensions of every spring pressure, overall and by comparison with each other, for L.C.D. - lowest common denominator. Remedy becomes fairly apparent.
Did this test, long long time ago, on British Thompson Auto Platens, before major dismantling.!!
Hi Teresita, congratulations on acquiring a press! Good luck with the restoration.
—Gwen
Someone is currently selling, piece by piece, a Golding Jobber No. 6 on eBay. If you need a part, it might be there:
http://tinyurl.com/yytf4nvq