Foil Stamping

What would you reccomend for foil stamping. Lead type, steel type or a zync based type. I have used foundry type for years on a Chandler and Price, but I wanted to get an idea of what holds up the best for foil stamping.
Thanks, Danny

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Brass type will hold up best and costs much. You can use “Mazak” type which is hard zinc metal
and was designed to replace brass. This is harder than the regular foundry type.
You can check with “” located in NY. They sell all the types you may want.
Lots of luck.

At ca. 200 F. book titling works for years using foundry type on occasion. At 250, even zinc type can be distorted, i.e. lenghtened if clamped too tightly. Large quantities of the very same text may justify copper or magnesium cliches. We do custom hard cover bindings, largely of theses.

From chatting with our UK linecaster engineer Mike Kirby last year, I understand that a significant number of commercial users of the UK Linos and Intertypes that he services and repairs are bookbinders and other hot foil people. If you have access to such a source this would avoid deterioration of your founders type.


Depending on what you are trying to foil, ie image size, font, paper thickness and texture, reverse out?, a copper or magnesium die will work fine on just about anything with the proper spot sheet, temp and foil. A Magnesium die will not hold up as well for multiple runs like a copper one will, especially if you are stamping on course, heavily textured stock.

At one time, Heidelberg offered a sideheating attachment that allowed use of Linotype slugs for foil stamping. So, I know that Lino slugs could be used with some rigging, although the length of run surely would not be anywhere near as long as copper or magnesium.

Have a look at
Dave Rose has gathered the various opinions about hot stamping with the different types of type.

For another way of going at it using gold and silver dusting powders, see my comment above re C&P Pilot.

I use brass for realy long runs.

Brass and copper