Toss out that WD40!

Hi there everybody. Just thought I’d put in my 2 cents on a useful product.
I have no affiliation with this product except that I use it all the time at work and have fixed up a number of antique tools with it (including my Kelsey that had everything frozen when i bought it).

Lo, and behold kroil. The best penetrating oil I have ever used. It also doesn’t gum up over time like WD40 does.
You can find it on Amazon, but there may be other places that are cheaper. Use it once, and you’ll never want to use anything else.
…Just trying to suggest a useful product for the hobby. :)

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Oh yeah, also remember that it is a penetrant oil… Not a replacement for proper lubrication. And the aero-kroil is the aerosol type. I haven’t tried the silikroil.

WD-40 and Kroil both were never designed as lubricants. WD-40 was designed as a surface protectant coating to keep water out, hence the gumming up. This is actually what WD-40 is supposed to do. It flows smoothly over the surface at first, but over time starts to oxidize in place, making a protective coating. Kroil is a low viscosity penetrating oil for loosening stuck parts. PBlaster is another good one. None of these are meant for lubrication of moving parts. That’s what light machine oil, gear oils and greases are for. They are viscous enough to stay put over the long term. There are good reasons to use all these different products but for best results, use the proper substance in the proper way.

Michael Hurley
Titivilus Press
Memphis, TN

My personal favorite for loosening parts is Liquid Wrench (this is probably a registered trade mark).

Regarding lubrication, remember the three purposes of lubrication: 1) to form a film between moving parts, so the parts are in contact with the lubricant film and not each other, 2) to flush contaminants and wear products out of the bearing area, and 3) to help dissipate heat (this one is not so important with our relatively low speed machinery).

Regarding 2) above, this is why it is not a good idea to use grease unless it is specified by the manufacturer. Oil, being more liquid, will be able to flush the bearing area more effectively. Enough oil should be used so that some oil does run out.

The bearing area does not just mean rotating bearings. It is any area where machined surfaces contact and move on each other.

if you happen to be dealing with aluminum,,, :”mouse milk” is the best, Kroil is what i use on steel…In a pinch automatic transmission fluid mixed with “marvel mystery oil” works also. Tap frequently with a small tool to set up a vibration,isolated heat and cool is very effective.