Adana help

My first go at printing has certainly has room for improvement. Printing using 24-point type. Van son CML oil-based ink. Brand new rollers from Caslon.

I get this odd shading effect on the horizontal bits, where not enough ink has gone on the page. At the same time, looking at the edges of the letters I wonder whether I’ve over-inked a bit.

I wondered whether this might be a result of the rollers slipping. My runners/trucks are nylon, and don’t have a locking screw. I’m guessing that this isn’t helpful, even if it’s not what’s causing this particular problem! (I’ve got some rollers that came with the press and they have metal runners with locking grub screws, but I can’t get the wretched things off the rollers; any hints?)


image: Capture.JPG


image: Capture2.JPG


Log in to reply   6 replies so far

Same effect here on a different 24-point typeface.

image: Capture.JPG


One potential cause is the significant difference in diameter of the rollers and runners. This causes slurring, as the runners and rollers have different surface speeds as they pass over the type. It also means that you may have worn rails, or that you are having to shim up the type to get inking. That the rollers aren’t locked to the runners is also possibly contributing, especially if the runners are loose enough to turn easily on the cores.

To remove the metal runners from the old cores, loosen the grub screws or remove them completely, then soak the runner-core joint with a solvent like PB Blaster. You could clamp the end of the core in a vise or locking pliers, with strips of hardwood against the core to prevent marking it, and work the runners with pliers, again with protection. As soon as they start to move drench them in the solvent again to flush out the rust and/or dirt.

Also, be sure the roller hooks are oiled when operating the press and there is no binding of the cores.


significant difference in diameter of the rollers and runners

Bob from AdLibPress, this is a typical feature of the Adana presses, as rails are slightly lower. Refer to Adana manuals!

Offerings. as follows, >>Removing the Metal Runners,!! possibly hidden under the ink deposit(s) between the 2 halves of the turned runners.!!! Gentle exploration with care and Stanley knife, May, possibly expose, Allen screw or Screwdriver slotted head,?? No visible securing screws!!! with care and an extra pair of hands, (or a bench vice with SOFT JAWS???) grip one end, exposed steel, and with extra hand, support the compound, and linish the free exposed steel shaft right up to the wheel/truck and then flip 180 degrees for the other end. The Linish principle, to shine the shaft, to enable the wheel to be gently rotated whilst still gripping one end with soft jaws, if friction of rotating builds up a little heat, No Problem, in fact good news, little heat with expansion and contraction will help dunked in water to cool down every few seconds.!!
Linnishing = thin strip of cloth backed abrasive strip, fine grade, between thumbs & fingers pulled backwards and forwards, around 50% of shaft, rotate 180 degrees, repeat in horizontal plane, when the shaft is reasonably shiny, half a chance to rotate and pull, off,?
Virtually, every Adana, that was made post W.W.II is always with trucks/wheels of non compatible size, i.e. 3 x 2, 5 x 3, H.S. 2 = 6 x 4), 8 x 5, H.S. 3 = 8 1/2, x 5 1/2 & T.P. 48, + T. P. 71 ALWAYS with Compound smaller than Wheels/trucks .N.B. bar T.P.71,? Every example on sight.!!!
8 x 5, which appears to be subject in question, just measured up at 1.248” Adana Original Plastic wheel, & recovered aftermarket compound @ 1.080”. >plus/minus .001<
If you suspect, & as you have implied, rollers slipping on the rails, tiny experiment, tiny pinch of *Rosin* on the rails under/in the path of the wheels/trucks, run up with no forme in machine, for a few dummy impressions, acts like hot tar on the highway,, creates friction and helps adhesion. If the trucks are slipping on the stocks because slightly worn shafts have been recovered, I am and can turn new trucks from aluminium, brass or industrial grade plastic, but mainly bore the holes, on the lathe to accomodate 2nd hand wear.! and as a matter of course, I drill and tap the trucks for grub screws.
Purely by coincidence accident, (not by judgement?) H.S.3 & T.P. 48 Adana,s are shaft diameter, compatible,!! and the difference between 8 M/M drills and 5/16”, imperial H/S, drill,s give a perfect option to accomodate wear, on recycled stocks?*?*?* When turning reproductions, I can and am turning replacement trucks, @ + .004, + .006, and + .008 thou,” to give plus .002, .003. and. .004 more height above the type matter to compensate worn rails or trucks.! Repro *lollipop* roller height guages, barrel style, are a simple job, in aluminium or brass if needed.

B L P if your are U.K. based give me a call OFF LINE, via B.P. …Good Luck Mick.

If Adana designed their presses that way my estimation of their technical ability goes down. The difference in diameter will always cause the effect I mentioned, which will result in the rollers “wiping” ink onto the type. In theory the two travel directions should cancel each other out, but most of the ink transfer occurs on the down stroke and the up stroke can’t completely erase it. My HQ has adjustable rails, and with the rollers the same diameter as the trucks I get very nice even inking, even though the trucks are not keyed to the cores. If I was still working I would take the trucks to my machine shop and drill and tap them for 4-40 set screws to cure that one lack.


AdLib>> The difference in diameter will always cause the effect I mentioned,

I see what you mean. It doesn’t sound very clever, does it.

Mick>>If you suspect, & as you have implied, rollers slipping on the rails

More the rollers’ spindles slipping within the sleeves of their nylon runners, actually. Any tips on how to prevent this? (Until the WD40 eventually penetrates into the metal runners. I’ve been doing this twice daily for nearly a week now…)