Shoulder Screw for Golding Jobber No. 7 (for tympan clamp)

I am hoping to be able to find a replacement bolt (screw?) for the tympan clamp. I attached some pictures below to indicate size and shape. I have been told it’s a 12-24 thread pattern from both hardware stores I went to. But none had anything close that would work. The press is a Golding Jobber no. 7.

Thank you

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Check online at (McMaster-Carr). They have a very large and complete assortment of hardware like this. It’s, I believe, a slotted filister-head screw. Looks like the shoulder is 1/4” long or possibly slightly less — you’ll want that exact dimension as well as the shoulder diameter. Also, an accurate thread count will be important — looks to me like it could be 16 or 18 instead of 24, but measuring against a rule divided into 64th will make it more accurate if you have one. If you can only get a shoulder a bit longer than the original, you can add a washer of the appropriate thickness to compensate. If the thread length is a bit longer you can cut it shorter (assuming the hole in the platen is no deeper).

Good luck!


Stateside??? It does (frequently) seem that you have to go all around the Sun to get to the Moon. Re the required bolt, as above :- it took all of 90 Seconds to establish that *GOLDING* Is/Was of U.S.A. origin Connected to A.T. F.? which narrowed the thread options down by about 90%? Another 60/70 Seconds established that Your Mc, M, C, has a seemingly excellent THREAD chart including, shoulder bolts.
Admittedly, the phrase *jack of all Trades, Master of None* seems slightly appropriate, Perhaps look up our Specialist,s NAMRICK U.K. Almost any Nut Bolt, thread size pitch etc etc (NOT diversifying in every which way).
We have C. & .P. in our Museum Print Shop, the same relative bolt (bale arm to platen??) gave up recently, the thread on the bolt went, on a Sunday, the C. &. P. is the most popular M/c for the public to see, Running,!!!
Within less time than this post has taken to key in!! it was *Jury Rigged* and running thus:- straight shank bolt of the correct thread, (no shoulder??) cut to length, sleeve/insert made by hand from brass tube, to accomodate the shoulder in the bale arm, which was egg shaped anyway.???
As the good buddy, above implies, and assuming bolt with shoulder length is too long, washer out, to include at least one spring washer, to allow the bale arm to rotate through its ARC, bale arms usually have a small *banana* bow to give little spring clip effect, (by design) which probably strains the bolt(s) in the first place,
If (possibly) sourcing and/or modifying a shoulder bolt are problematical, acquire a normal allen head bolt of the appropriate thread with some plain shank, (it can not be rocket science) and make a brass or copper sleeve to act as the *shoulder* if all else has failed,?? which would probably be an advantage, i. e. brass/copper is a good bearing option, + the hole in the bale arm is almost certainly elongated, and could be trued up, in the repair process, both sides, would seem expedient. so to do.?
Apologies for the ramble, it might help, or may not.!!
Good luck.

Thank you Bob and Mick on Monotype!


I might have an extra screw from a parts No 7 if you’re interested.