Might be a problem! You might be able to remove the pot and heat it in an oven or ceramics kiln to just the melting temp of the metal and then with a couple of pairs of tongs remove it and pour the metal into a pig mould. Just a guess.
When that happened on my Linotype, Bernzomatic propane didn’t work (not hot enough and wouldn’t stay lit) but MAPP gas did. MAPP isn’t available any longer, but MAP-Pro is what is currently available and might work. Or you might have to use the Brazing kit that combines Map-Pro with oxygen.
One of many reasons an Intertype is the easier maintained machine is the positioning of the heating elements. Intertype’s elements surround the pot and are fairly easily replaced should they fail, whereas, as you now find, Linotype’s elements are frozen within the metal itself. Oxyacetylene is the answer, as is an old-fashioned blowtorch, but whichever method is employed bear in mind direct flame (itself a hazard) ‘burns’ the metal in the pot thus rendering it unfit to re-use, and any uneven heating gives rise to the real possibility of cracking the cast itself. I’ve done it once, on a Model 8, and it took forever - a millimeter at a time. But I did ripen my vocabulary somewhat. :o) You might give Dave Seat a call to ask what method he would use, In any case, you’ve a tough row to hoe.
For the record, propane will melt 3/11/86 slugcasting alloy just fine (my Ludlow is a natural gas model i’ve converted to run on propane) but yeah, it would take a while to melt out a whole pot with a Bernzomatic torch, and you’d probably have to remove it from the machine and turn it sideways so the metal drips out as it melts.
Well got the idea, so disconnected burnt out heating element.
Hooked up good side only. Heated up crucible, so far so good.
Lead nice and hot after about 3 hours. Had mouth piece high also.
Tried to put brand new heating elements in, did not fit, too big. Is L model bigger than the M???
As lead was solidifying, put the one side of element back in to heat lead before solidifying.
Managed to build one out of two, got it in, but forgot it floats. So Couldn’t manipulate everything so held in with sticks till lead was solid enough too hold in place.
Finally got clamp on to hold in place. Will get thermostat in better tomorrow and fire up.
Best to do it the hard way first. Three hands would have worked better…
Might be a problem! You might be able to remove the pot and heat it in an oven or ceramics kiln to just the melting temp of the metal and then with a couple of pairs of tongs remove it and pour the metal into a pig mould. Just a guess.
When that happened on my Linotype, Bernzomatic propane didn’t work (not hot enough and wouldn’t stay lit) but MAPP gas did. MAPP isn’t available any longer, but MAP-Pro is what is currently available and might work. Or you might have to use the Brazing kit that combines Map-Pro with oxygen.
One of many reasons an Intertype is the easier maintained machine is the positioning of the heating elements. Intertype’s elements surround the pot and are fairly easily replaced should they fail, whereas, as you now find, Linotype’s elements are frozen within the metal itself. Oxyacetylene is the answer, as is an old-fashioned blowtorch, but whichever method is employed bear in mind direct flame (itself a hazard) ‘burns’ the metal in the pot thus rendering it unfit to re-use, and any uneven heating gives rise to the real possibility of cracking the cast itself. I’ve done it once, on a Model 8, and it took forever - a millimeter at a time. But I did ripen my vocabulary somewhat. :o) You might give Dave Seat a call to ask what method he would use, In any case, you’ve a tough row to hoe.
For the record, propane will melt 3/11/86 slugcasting alloy just fine (my Ludlow is a natural gas model i’ve converted to run on propane) but yeah, it would take a while to melt out a whole pot with a Bernzomatic torch, and you’d probably have to remove it from the machine and turn it sideways so the metal drips out as it melts.
sorry, double posted…
To clear the pot, I ladled out the metal as it melted.
Tipping the machine is uneccessary, given the right tools.
Well got the idea, so disconnected burnt out heating element.
Hooked up good side only. Heated up crucible, so far so good.
Lead nice and hot after about 3 hours. Had mouth piece high also.
Tried to put brand new heating elements in, did not fit, too big. Is L model bigger than the M???
As lead was solidifying, put the one side of element back in to heat lead before solidifying.
Managed to build one out of two, got it in, but forgot it floats. So Couldn’t manipulate everything so held in with sticks till lead was solid enough too hold in place.
Finally got clamp on to hold in place. Will get thermostat in better tomorrow and fire up.
Best to do it the hard way first. Three hands would have worked better…
Yes element had hole blowin in it and short to ground