Miehle V-50x creasing

I currently do all my diecutting on a C&P 12 x 18 handfed press. I use matrix. In the other corner of my garage, sits a Miehle V-50x that I got a couple years ago but never set it up. I know it runs well and made sure it fed 16pt SBSC1S without a hitch before I brought it home.

I’ve found a local printer that does frequent diecutting on a Miehle and is willing to train me. But, he’s never creased on one using matrix. He’s only done scoring by denting the paper without a female backside. This won’t do for my product as I need impeccable creasing (www.candycartons.com or www.salesblitzboxes.com)

My questions are:
1. Can you use matrix on a Miehle?
2. If so, do you apply it the same way, by doing a single impression to stick the matrix to the jacket?
3. What cutting rule height for the V-50?
4. What creasing rule height assuming 16pt paperboard?
5. Should the cutting rule height vary for horizontal and vertical cuts? (I vaguely remember reading this somewhere?)

If there is someone out there using matrix on a V-50 to diecut folding cartons, I’d forever appreciate your expertise!!

Greg Beckemeier
(636) 542-8560
[email protected]

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Yes you can use matrix on your press. Apply it the same way you do on your C&P. Use .918 for cut rule. Score rule across the cylinder should be .900 and around the cylinder .890. You can probably use 50 matrix. If the paper cracks use a larger matrix.

Greg, More than likely your v-50 will need 3-phase, that will be your first hurdle.Scoring and diecutting can be done the
delivery can be problematic. You say you do diecutting and use creasing matrix?Thats where I’m confused. I have only diecut to the jacket or plate,and score with the matrix.
When both are done at the same time the score rule has to be lower than the cutting rule.I would talk with BarPlate
explain your situation and go from there. The 16pt board
grain should be parallel to the cylinder. Best james

Thank you wild and james! I’ve already got the press up and running with a phase converter. James, I diecut and crease (score) at the same time. The die has both cutting blades and creasing rule. Perhaps my terminology is mixed up: are scoring and creasing the same thing?
I’ll definitely call bar-plate and speak to one of their experts. Wildmh2000, thank you VERY MUCH for the rule heights!

Greg Beckemeier
(636) 542-8560
[email protected]

Greg, I have 4 v50x’s and love ‘m…… but not soo much for diecutting. I do easy die work on ‘em, tons of numbering, scoring and perforating. In the early days I did alot of diecutting on them, but have since come to realize that Windmills and Klugies do a better and less aggraveting job of it. I do most of my diecutting on a 13x18 Windmill and 12x18 Kluge. .016 board can be troublesome. I checked out your product, it’s a sure fire product for you it’s cool!!! but for the volume you will be diong, I would simply get a 12x18 Kluge with a feeder and leave it SETUP! Carl.

Thanks for the advice, Carl! I actually had a 12 x 18 Kluge with feeder, but the cut/pressure was inconsistent. Must have had a crack somewhere or something. Since moving to the C&P I’ve had no problems and the cut/crease is GORGEOUS!

Let me ask you this: I only make one style of box, so I wouldn’t be switching dies at all. If I get the Miehle cutting nicely, what about simply leaving it alone once I’ve got it going? Are you saying that I’ll have to constantly be adjusting it? I can remove the leading cut blades and shear them later on my cutter so they wouldn’t come apart when exiting…

Your thoughts?


Greg, you must of had something with the Kluge, it should have had no issues with your candy box. On to the v50x, once you have it dialed in it should maintain you setup without any problems. Yes you must remove your Head Knife or you will never it get through the press. With .016 board you have to be careful to never pick up 2 sheets, otherwise I think it will get stuck on impression. If this happens try having someone else feather the speed lever while you try giving the flywheel some personal extra push. If this fails always have a 1/2” allen wrench and a 1 foot long cheater bar around to loosen the 4 bolts that attach the Cylinder to the Frame. Loosen them about one full turn or so to allow the cylinder some extra clearence between tha die and the die cutting jacket. When setting up the die in the chase as well as when you impost your image …

…never put the image too close to the gripper. Reason being the die cutting jacket is never sucked up completely to the cylinder the first inch or so near the gripper bar and therefor is somewhat spongie or “soft ” in this area making makeready difficult. To aid in your makeready use steel shim tape that you can put under the scoring and/or cutting rule. You can get this tape from die makers supply houses, when using you will cut it with scissors an spot it between the die and the bed of the press. Buy .0015 and .002 tape. Never use paper/ tape behind the rules, it won’t hold up. On my verts I use a boxmakers jacket with NO packing under it. If you must put packing under the jacket you should have no more than 1 sheet of .006 calandered paper. I hope this is some help. The v50 is one of the best letterpress out there, people just don’t understand ‘em. You can get 2 to 4 of them running at a time on easy work and do it all day long. Keep in mind though, what you want your press to do can be done but it will take some doing. Good luck, Carl

Wow, THANK YOU CARL. I’m making a .pdf of these suggestions and putting it my file as we speak. My electrician came over last night and hooked up the phase converter. It’s running beautifully!

I’ll post a video of it running slowly. If anybody sees anything amiss as far as parts needed I’d sure appreciate the feedback.

Gotta go give the kids a bath, will post video shortly…


I’ve got the press feeding 16pt paperboard! Can’t post a video yet as my wife took the camera.

Post the video to Vimeo.com or Youtube.com and paste the link here.

No sweat, good luck Mike! I’m afraid I have no history for printing, just die cutting…