Cleaning a C&P cutting blade

Hey everyone!
We’ve recently acquired a C&P paper cutter, and the blade is pretty dirty—although plenty sharp. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to take it off and how to clean the blade? We don’t want to lose any fingers!

Thanks!
~Beth
You can see some pics here of our moving process. We bought a paper cutter and also picked up a C&P 12x18—which took us 3 hours to move out of the building!

http://stitchriprepeat.blogspot.com/2010/04/weve-gained-some-weight.html

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I recommend hitting every possible surface of the cutter with a good scrubbing of acetone. All of that old crud will show up on the edges of your nice white paper if you dont.

To clean the blade you can either put it at the down position and wash it with a rag or you can remove the blade and clean it. If you are worried about cutting yourself while handling the loose blade you can wear heavy leather gloves, although a smart careful approach goes much further than any safety gear that you can use when handling a blade.

Better to find a professional blade sharpener and pay extra to have the blade refurbished. There should have been two handles that came with the cutter to hold the blade, and a wooden sheath to hold the blade also. If you did not get those parts you will have to make a sheath to protect the blade, but bolts threaded into the holes on the blade will make ok handles. Put the blade in the down position, and loosen the bolts that hold the blade on. As you remove the bolts insert a longer bolt (or handle) and with one hand hold the blade vertical and remove the other bolt(s), then insert the other bolt (handle). With the blade loose it can then be removed. The sheath is a board that is longer and wider than the blade that has a thin board with a beveled edge attached toward the bottom in such a manner that the bevel protects the blade. It has two holes that match holes on the blade so that it can be bolted to the board, as it was bolted to the cutter. To clean your cutter itself, do not use acetone! It will remove the paint, and make you high as a kite if used in a closed space. (It will also run the risk of damaging you.) Kerosene is much better as it doesn’t evaporate as quickly. Use red or gray Scotchbrite pads on the exposed metal surfaces and rags on the painted surfaces. It will take some time, so be throrough. If you like, after the exposed surfaces are cleared of rust and debris, they can then be cleaned with a faster evaporating solvent like Naptha. This process also works for the press.

Paul