C5099 First C&P New Style 10x15?

Hi All,

I just acquired a Chandler and Price 10x15 New Style with the serial number C5099. According to the records online, the first new style was C50100. Do I have a prototype or something?

It also came with a huge 3 phase GE “induction motor”.

I’m looking forward to cleaning this old horse up and putting it to work.

In a previous life, it was used to print on Firefighting gloves. The type in the chase reads “STAY ALERT, DON’T GET HURT”.

image: engine.jpg

engine.jpg

image: engine2.jpg

engine2.jpg

Log in to reply   3 replies so far

I was lucky to get a 120 volt motor with my 10x15 NS but I still had to clean it at the local 25 cent car wash because I don’t have a pressure washer. Lotsa compressed air and a new set of Lincoln Commutator Stones - which you will need to keep this old motor running (Amazon $13.95). Also new brushes and it runs fine. I still have to give my old motor a light touch with the stones every now and then. Anyone in the Community have any suggestions on these old motors please join in - eh?

“I still have to give my old motor a light touch with the stones every now and then”
Please, What does this comment mean?
Thank you

F.P. we believe that the post above (Gil),s is referring to the method of Basically (and very crudely) blocking/stoning the commutator (and armature) down to remove the tramlines on the segements of the comm.
The expression above (crudely) is offered against the background of many, many years of *nursing* motors along, when replacement should be the order of the day.!
There is/was a short term partial solution, when the commutator was worn down, but still just service-able, i.e.the armature was taken to the local Engineer(s) and the commutator turned down, just sufficient to come back to parallel along the extent of the segements, and then NEW carbon brushes fitted, (not old ones).

New brushes always come in with completely flat >face< to commutator attitude (hence no second hand!) very quickly bed in, i.e. the carbon adopts the contours to match the segments.

N.B the above method can only go so far, BECAUSE the radius of the commutator reaches a point where the brushes overlap the segments and partially contact more than ONE segment at a time, hence *bite the bullitt* time.

One extra tiny tip, from a long time ago, even missed by the Engineers, occasionally if its a *RUSH* job Friday afternoon for the weekend, or mid run for an urgent job, with the action of turning the softer Copper of the segments, (even with the best prepared cutting tool) there is a slight >BLEED< from the copper, usually cleaned out with just a modified section of hack saw blade, (akin to Grannie,s Crochet Hook,) even useful for cleaning out accumulated carbon and crap between overhauls.???