Continuing thread on my C&P Pilot NS with broken arm

Regarding my original post:

Scudder, I’m posting a picture of the arm of my press where the break is located. I’ve also called out the two pins and nut that connect this piece to the press.

I appreciate your assistance.

image: C&P NS arm break.jpg

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Okay, as expected that set-up is more or less identical to the Craftsmen Superior that I have.

If you want to tackle taking the piece off, here’s how I would go about it:

1) First, remove the pin that keeps the roller saddle from rotating in the arm (the pin on the side of the broken arm).

2) Next, carefully remove the nut. If you have access to a socket set I’d definately try that first. That nut should come off fairly easily, it’s not likely to have very long threads, but you never know, and a socket wrench is definately the best tool for the job if it’s going to be a little stubborn.
Once the nut is off you should be able to slide the roller saddle rod (the rod going through the spring) out of the back section of your broken arm without the spring decompressing (it’s held with another pin). The front broken section, the roller saddle, and the spring should all come off as one unit.

3) Next you’re going to want to tackle the other section of broken roller arm, which should still be attached at that other pin.

On the Superior, that pin is actually beveled, so it’ll only come out one way. Don’t know if the C&P NS is the same way, but if you take a look at the pin from both sides you might be able to tell which end is more narrow. If you can’t tell, or it looks to be the same size at both ends, go ahead and pick whichever end is easer to get to, and tap at it with a hammer and a nailset, or something else that’s narrow and will fit into the hole as the pin is tapped out. Be gentle at first. If you’re not making any progress on one end try the other. Chances are it won’t want to give at first, and you may need to use a fair amount of force, but once you get it loose it should tap out fairly easily. If you need to you can grab the pin with a pair of pliers once you’ve got it partway out, but ideally whatever you’re using to tap it out would be long enough to fit all the way through the hole.

4) To remove the spring and roller saddle from the front section of broken arm, just pull out the pin that goes through the roller saddle rod. This is sometimes easier said than done, but it’ll be much easier in your case since you’ll be able to get at that pin without the arm being in the way. Again, you might need to tap it out with a hammer. Remember that that spring is under a fair amount of pressure, so be careful. I hit myself in the face once with the spring when disassembling one of those arms!

Re-attaching everything once the arm is fixed is a bit more tricky, since you’ll have to re-compress the spring and put that pin back in while the whole assembly is inside the roller arm, but it can be done with a little patience.

I won’t give instructions for that now, but let me know if you want them and I’ll make another post.

I’m not an expert on this by any means, but I’ve been told by welders that welding cast iron is not the problem it used to be. I’m not sure if it’s a matter of new type welding rods, or what. I remember when I had a cast piece on my C&P welded it was quite the job for the specialist. Now, apparently, not so much so; and I think welding would be stronger than brazing.

I’m glad you took the time to post, I had no idea that welding methods for cast iron had improved. This is good news, since welding is almost certianly stronger than brazing, as you mentioned.

Thanks all for your help. I believe I have located a replacement piece on a salvage press. I will need to take my piece off and replace it with the “new” one. No need for a welder. Scudder, I’m printing your instructions to do this. Thanks so much as this is very helpful.

No problem. Let us know how it turns out or if you get stuck.