Roller Diameter?

May seem basic and simple, but (if you are printing type, blocks, plates etc even mixed,o k.) are you trying to use numbering machine(s) solo, that are of different height, (wrong even) or perhaps your depressable trigger too strong? Do you have access to a sophisticated type high guage, or even a simple hand held “C” style? for just a preliminary check!!!! Just ideas, not facts.

You need the softest rollers you can get to number. 20 durometer i think. they also make low plunger machines, if your rollers are getting hard with time they can be held off the numbers by the plunger. what Mr. Mick said is also true. I run almost daily and the last time i bought rollers was 1999.

Dick, 9 out of 10 for being awake at the back of the class, take a house point, move to the front of the class and buy the teacher some more cookies!!! BUT seriously, some time ago there was posts, regarding numbering boxes skipping out of sync etc when used in multiples, and I did input my 10 cents worth, because I had been on a course in which, was included, a tutorial involving the use of multiples of numbering boxes all working of a common shaft locked, in the form and operated simultaenously by a remote plunger! (Ta Dick) outside the printing area!!! Virtually foolproof for synchronisation, across the board!! Large(ish) blank matrix on/in the head of the plunger, to give the rollers a fighting chance at point of contact, the Figure, Letter, or No. mat invariably involved sharp serifs, to crucify the rollers. AND no need to flag the plunger out, because it was outside the finished print area. The system was designed around standard aluminium, (cornerstone in u.k.) box girder 4 ems wide, which when used on its side still made 4 ems and provided lock up and channel for the splined driving rod(s) to link any multiple of boxes. It worked equally as well on Platens, inc clamshell, parallel approach, and big cylinders.>> Picture the scene, AND the terminolgy, if/when one ordinary box had skipped a number on an eight page etc or bigger on H/Berg close to the grip, trying to clock it back!!!! WITH a STEEL bodkin instead of the semi approved nylon or plastic tool?>>>Usually ended up with the F.O.C. pointing out to the management that a 5 foot nothing Machine Minder (later to become Machine Manager) hanging off the end of the bed, would be far better protected and productive, by using remotely operated multiple numbering box system. But of course the fine upstanding tea total Caster Operator(s) really suspected this was a ploy, to be able to get the job done quicker, to be able, to get over the pub, break time!!! for a swift half or three. I rest my case “Your Honour” Serious Question? Was or Is this known of in the U.S.A and/or is it worth a little investigation, maybe yet, to protect the rollers, if runs are into the thousands or more!!!

Folks, Thanks for your info
It prompted me to do a couple measurements
on the numbering machine that I use most of the time which is a Liebinger 13
FWIW, I try to stay away from running more than 2 up
machines just for the factor of keeping an eye on all machines with repect to one sticking/not decrementing.
The meas. of a blank slide in a Lieb 13 is 31/32” or 0.96875”
Meas. of the number wheels is 29/32” or 0.90625”
This seems in line with 0.908” for perf rule
and/or 0.918” for cut rule. Also just pulled a meas. at end of one my rollers and came up with 1 29/32”
Now if the person who sent an email saying that 2” roller diam. is the correct spec. is right this would be a simpler approach. Get a new/”fatter” roller and adjust my truck rails
at least somewhat back towards their old positions.
Should also be stated that I do trade / finishing work;
no attempts at whole pages of type or delicate graphics
covering large area of form.

Mike, dickg is correct that you need the softest durometer available, 20 durometer should work fine. The actual diameter should be 51mm (2.008 inches). The rollers will harden and shrink with age so I think dickg getting 14 years and counting on a set of rollers is very good. Find out where he bought them and how he maintains them.

I bought these rollers from Roll Craft in Rhode Island, i can get contact info if you need it, every year i deglaze the rollers and when i wash up i take them out of the press and hand wash making sure there is no ink on the ends of the rollers, also don’t perforate with rollers on the press, i need new rollers now but these have served me well, been very happy with Roll Craft rollers.

dickg
Thanks for info on roller source. We have a couple
of places here that recover; one problem was that someone else spec’d out the recover of these rollers
as part of the sale of press to me. Couse, I wouldn’t have known correct diam. then or now till starting this thread.
I try to do thorough washups out of the press and catch the ends. Have been pretty good about not leaving any perf rule in the chase when rollers in journal.
Guess I thought that if anything, over time the ink I didn’t get out would cause rollers to swell up. So i decided to stop the bus and get some baseline data; Thanks again to all who given their help.