Painting a printing press

I want to paint the flywheel on my C&P. What type of paint should I use?

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99% of a good paint job is in the prep.

With that said I tend to like Rustoleum paint. It has a self leveling agent in it and sticks to most anything.

BLAST CLEANED in the first place, perfect preparation in a few minutes flat, in every Nook, Cranny, Crevice, including inclusions in the original casting,??? Without minutes /hours of Stripper,Wire wool, Abrasives etc, etc.

PERFECT Key for U-POL Acid Etch primer, specifically Acid Etch.!! and then Top Coated with virtually anything from 2 Pack Traditional Cellulose, Enamel, Coach Paint, Marine Varnish, (Which will withstand hammer blows, up to a point).
***One step short of the (probably) original BAKED ON finish.***

Blast Cleaning covers a wide range of methods from (Savage) Shot Basting through (Milder) Bead Blasting down to Sand Blasting and even Ground up Walnut Shells, for the gentle/delicate preparation of tiny parts in a Blast Cabinet.

. “”The same style of Cabinet (in essence) as used by Karen Silkwood (Meryl Streep) in the film SILKWOOD.”” Glass screen, Rubber Gauntlets etc.?????

As above preparation is virtually everything, but efficient base coat matters as well, way back Primer would have been Red Lead or Red Oxide, now generally Banned.

After the parts have been prepared for painting… we use a synthetic enamel, usually Rustoleum Hammer tone. A minimum of two coats, applied by hand. It is a high gloss finish and seems to hold up well to the mild solvents usually used to clean up after printing. You may have to search for the quarts but you will not be disappointed with the results as long as you like the high gloss and follow the directions for application, particularly when to apply the second coat. Look at the several photos on our website to get an idea of how it turns out.


I’ll mention this also. In my experience high gloss paint tends to have a harder/tougher finish to it than matte or dull paints.