Moving the 10x15 T platen

Just wondering if anyone has had any success moving the T Platen with an engine hoist? Looks like one with 2 tone lifting capacity would work if you use the heavy lift eye-screw thingy that screws in under the inking cylinder.

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Yes it is possible to move the 10 x 15 with a conventional engine crane BUT it is not for the faint hearted.
For starters, (generally) Auto engine cranes have splayed legs to wheel in under Autos, (within the track of the auto) to position the *GIB* immediately above the engine, transverse or in line, by implication, to shackle the engine at the SHORTEST reach possible, to utilize the Maximum lift capability.

The 10 x 15 is over a Ton/Tonne and even when shackled at the shortest arm, is very unstable, with a *Ring Bolt* in use, as above, the point of balance (fore and aft) is just influenced by the weight of the motor, makes life easier just to remove the motor = from past efforts.?

Again (generally) engine cranes have effectively *A* frame geometry and even with the majority of the weight, at shortest arm, when pulling along tend to be unstable, straight line O.K. otherwise ???

Apologies for being *defeatist* but we have learned the hard way for several decades, and usually revert to (where practical and possible) either 3 steel rolling tubes - in the order of 2 x 2” and 1 x 2 1/4”

3 rollers in the order and ratio as above, make for easy rolling, especially around curves and corners, as in doorways and around other machinery.


Hire or acquire 4 machinery moving *Skates* all with built in turntable facilities, *skates* normally come with draw bar hooks.

Good Luck, and at all times, caution and safety.
M.H. - Mick. 7/11/`18.

Not a Tiegel-Heidelberger, but I thought there were also lateral holes in the base for inserting lifting rods. Even if not moving with these, might be helpful getting it high enough for skates. If used, it’s a wider more stable support.
But I do agree here with Mick, on a swept-clean cement floor, pipe rollers are a very simple and controllable method of moving; using one inch pipes, the press is never high enough to be unstable, even if you lose a roller. The direction of travel is easily changed with by nudging the leading pipe with a sledgehammer.
I have also relied on pry bars with a wide toe rather than ordinary crow bars for lifting and blocking up. Marshalltown makes a variety, often sold as demolition tools, easy to find on eBay and Amazon.

Im going to chime in here too. I have been involved in press removal (rigging) for over 20 years. Moving a Heidelberg platen with an engine hoist, no no and again no. The engine hoist is designed with v legs that straddle the item to be lifted. I dont think youd get one around the heidelberg platen. A 10 x 15 platen weighs 1100kgs, the hoist at its shortest position will lift the maximum weight stated ie. 2000kg. This platen is top heavy and awkward to lift from above. Youd also need appropriate slings.
I echo the guys above about using rollers and / or skates. Please do not attempt this with the engine hoist it will not end well. If youre not sure use a removal/rigging expert, they have experience and insurance.
Ive seen quite a few cock ups in this game when someone ‘has a bash’ themselves. Not only is there a risk to the machine more importantly there is a risk to the person. Its simply not worth it.
Im not going to give you the full story but i had to once rescue a platen at 45 degrees where it had fallen from a pallet truck and buried itself in soft ground. That was an expensive and difficult lesson learned for that client!

if you are moving “in-house” is it possible for you to rent a “Gantry Hoist”? these often have enough lifting capacity even with wheels to make them movable. it is a “Swing set” “A- frame” type hoist with a suitable chain hoist
Moving presses is not for the faint of heart, or,,,, the inexperienced. get help, be safe.

Use a Gantry to move the Press with the eye hook, safer and more secure.

I used an engine hoist on a big Reliance Hand Press ….it took a good deal of thought and rigging (I used chain webbing and carbiners from my climbing kit) you have to careful -determine the angel of force so things do tip of flip as you will NOT be able to stop them …. I also left notable tracks on my wood floor! Just installed) BUT it did work for a very short distance:::: The floor must be flat and smooth ….. or the hoist will not roll (my project started out on a cement garage floor and the hoist would not budge and you can not shove things ) …I was working alone (also a poor idea but I had no choice & ultimately it worked) ….but I can not emphasize to you how much thought is needed GO SLOW & even SLower!! any push to rush is asking for disaster ….. (I also moved a smaller Goulding jobber …same issues …. much easier indeed & again in both cases I was moving feet not long distances ….good luck…& know when to get out yr wallet
(PS my issue was that I had to move both several times as I was building my studio ….so calling in a rigger was way too much $$$ ….. if you can afford the hoist (which you also have to store and move when yr done) & are doing it once, a good rigger is the way to go stand back & watch & enjoy saying “I want it over there” while you writ the check …..all best MF

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As Eric and Typenut imply, sectional Gantry (Hire Shop) is a good option if circumstances permit.
One small drawback, they tend to be substantial in construction and heavy to transport, even in *Knocked Down* form. Unless the hire shop includes delivery and collection.

Our professional Movers/Riggers, (generally) use nothing but, because, the upright Shear Legs and wheels are normally, only 6 - 9” (inches) wide + the R.S.J. (bridge) that carries the chain hoist, uses a fairly universal fitting/adaptor that will accept a range of R.S.J.s, in the order of 3 x 2” 4 x 2” 5 x 2”, etc., etc., meaning that the Cross Head R.S.J. can be supplied no longer than required.

By implication, the whole rig can be, width wise! as little as 12” on either side standing out from the base of the M/c.
+ The travelling Bogey that carries the Hoist, normally is equipped with spacer washers, to fit any size (width) of R.S.J. and a Pinch Bolt to keep it (the M/c) and the Bogey central. .

Not sure why you can’t use an appropriately sized engine hoist to LIFT a 10 x 15. However, it is a 3000 lb press, so finding a hoist might be problematic. If you use the appropriate lifting eye, fitted to the hole provided behind the chase clamp, the press will be balanced even with the motor mounted. Pipes are handy for in shop moving, but putting the machine on a pallet may make distance moving simpler.

Also, the center of gravity on these presses is near the plate pivot and so the presses have a tendency to pitch forward when tipped over.

Mikefrommontana -
pure Physics

An engine Hoist carries the weight forward and out, the chance to tip the Press is great.

A Gantry is a straight up Lift.

I think you’re better off with a gantry, I happened to watch a video the other day from ‘A Fine Press’ showing his move.
My opinion, the best possible solution is to hire a rigger that has moving experience with windmills.

Great comments. Thanks everyone for your detailed responses, I don’t need to move my press, but have recently had to move it twice in quick succession, which proved quite costly.
After reading the advice here i’ll continue to use the professionals for any future moves.

Over the years I’ve moved tons of machinery not just printing presses but also big CNC machines. These days I use an Industrial Mover - cost lotsa bucks- but at least I will never know the “pleasure” of having my foot crushed under one of my machines… and to you letterpress guys, imagine trying to move a Model 8 Linotype on your own? Good luck…