Treadle Measurements Needed

I can’t help you with direct measurements. I have printed on a borrowed Kelsey Star, but that press has moved on. I did have a similar problem with a C&P 8x12 and improvised a crude treadle with a 2x4 and a loop of thin steel cable. The loop was too long at first, but by incrementally shortening the loop and repositioning the cable clamp I was soon able to find a reasonable length for the treadle hook. I also adjusted the treadle itself by shortening the 2x4 until it all felt right.

If you want a treadle that looks like the original you may have trouble. If you want a treadle that works, locate the treadle pivot points on the frame, probably on the back legs; you can then get a steel rod the right length to fit into the two pivot points, weld two lengths of angle iron to the rod parallel to each other and relatively close together, and extending out from under the front legs far enough to operate comfortably. Weld a piece of 1/4”x3” steel plate about 8” long across the two rods. Locate the flywheel shaft crank, turn it so it is pointing straight down, set the new treadle in its “sockets” and with the foot pad end lying on a piece of 3/4” lumber, and measure the distance straight down from the top side of the crank journal to the top side of the treadle “arms”. Get a piece of 1/2x3/4 inch steel long enough to reach from the treadle arms at the point directly below the journal to a distance of the circumference of the journal up from the bottom side of the journal; measure the diameter of the journal and heat one end of the rod dull red and bend it into a hook with the inside curve to match the journal diameter; then heat the other end of the rod dull red and hammer it flat, and drill a 1/2” hole in the end opposite the “hook”. Cut two short pieces of of the same angle iron as the “arms” of the treadle, drill a 1/2” hole through middle of one flange of each of those and weld them to the top side of each treadle arm so the holes line up at the point directly below the crank journal. You can then drill a hole in the straight end of that hooked rod for a 1/2” bolt long enough to reach through the two brackets you welded to the treadle, bolt the hook to the treadle and install it on the press, and start printing.

That treadle will probably not be very different from the original Kelsey one.

Herewith a sketch

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AdLibPress - Nice detail. I don’t have a need for a treadle, a guy can dream….but good stuff to know for a retrofit should it ever comes up.

Thank you for the mock up! Just want a working treadle - no need to look like the original. Reached out to a few museums to see if anyone had a Star to measure with no luck. Next step is to follow your directions and measure it myself. Will keep you posted!

Thank you for the mock up! Just want a working treadle - no need to look like the original. Reached out to a few museums to see if anyone had a Star to measure with no luck. Next step is to follow your directions and measure it myself. Will keep you posted!

If you do use my ides, I see one potential trouble spot in my sketches - the long iron pieces need to be increased in height so that there is more metal above and below the holes in the middle for the hook bolt. 1 inch by 2 inch angle iron 1/8” or 3/16” thick steel with the 2 inch side upright should be enough.

If you do use my idea, I see one potential trouble spot in my sketches - the long iron pieces need to be increased in height so that there is more metal above and below the holes in the middle for the hook bolt. 1 inch by 2 inch angle iron 1/8” or 3/16” thick steel with the 2 inch side upright should be enough.

We have a star with an intact treadle. Unfortunately for us, the main frame has a hairline crack so it’s in line for restoration. Attached a few quick photos as I was running out the door. Could totally make a scale drawing later this week. feel free to email me directly also. [email protected]

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