Challenge 1425C proof press set up.

Hello all,

I now have a Challenge 1425C proof press all ready to set up for printing but since it is my first time using this kind of press I need a little advice/help.

First things first.. I’m really thrown off by the packing and draw sheet. It came with some sheets on it but they don’t really seem to be the right length. the width of the cylinder is about 14” but I’m not sure how long it should be since both ends of the packing slip into a slit in the cylinder to be held in place. Anyone with this press have an idea or does anyone recommend a place where I can get proper packing for it? How important is proper tympan? Would it hurt to use something like newsprint?

Next I have a few questions about setting up my blocks. I plan to get a piece of steel plate cut to line the bottom of the bed acting as a permeant flat galley since I will mainly be printing type high engraving and woodcut blocks.

I then planned to lock the blocks up to the side of the press where the walls are width wise and leave it unlock length wise. Do you think this would work or would it need to be locked up from all sides?

Thanks,
Jordan

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Jordan-

Have you taken a letterpress class anywhere? Not wanting to come off as cocky, just curious.

HavenPress,

I have not unfortunately. I’m posting in the beginner section because I am as new as they get.

I see; again, not an affront. I think that’s what it’s here for. You seem to have taken the bull by the horns, so to speak.

~~

Hopefully someone familiar with your press will speak to the correct format for your packing ‘topsheets’ and have some tips for loading the tympan onto the cylinder- I’ve never used your press, but most cylinder presses are similar in some way or another.
But one thing to note is that- while you needn’t concern yourself with oiled tympan unless you can/choose to get it- using a quality sheet for the topsheet is quite important. For me, newsprint simply won’t do. It’s not tough enough and it abrades too easily.

A lot of people (myself included) use mylar as a topsheet- .004” clear glossy mylar is readily available at art supply stores in 24x36 sheets and rolls.
I also often use a sheet of Tympan with another sheet of Mylar Sticker-paper laminated to it as my topsheet. Best of both worlds; tympan sheet that is already formatted (I bought a lot at once), and very thin mylar to resist solvents/abrasion/wipe off easily.

Then for undersheets/presspacking, I do use oiled tympan or red pressboard- both available at NA Graphics and a variety of other online suppliers.

~~

The steel plate you speak of would be referred to as a galley-plate sometimes; the standard plate thickness is .050” and you’ll want to order it as close to the size of your bed as possible.
Spring for some stainless steel if you can, it was worth it for the 320-G I had.

~~

Locking blocks to the two sides that the cylinder travels on might do for short runs or lighter pressure- but that may be leaving you open to ‘plate travel’ over time. You won’t notice it at first but you will if you attempt multi-color printing with multiple runs. Printers lockup from 4 sides for a reason- it’s the most secure, accurate way to keep a block in place and assure it won’t travel.
As the old saying goes, ‘your milage may vary’.

~~

Good luck with your new press and welcome to letterpress!

HavenPress,

Thank you so much for your helpful reply. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks,
Jordan

Thanks for sharing this information, i truly love your weblog vi cam tay. Keep this good work & enlighten us with your new post. Thanks.

Jordan

Where are you located?

Casey
Inky Lips Press

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Oh Yeah! Hello, this is a really fas­ci­nat­ing web blog and I have loved read­ing sev­eral of the arti­cles and posts con­tained upon the site, sus­tain the great work and hope to read a lot more excit­ing arti­cles in the time to come. Thank you so much kinh thoi trang.