Windmill Serial Number

I would say that would be close to the early 70’s late 60’s.
My be hard to find anyone in your area that would go with you to check it out. I wouldn’t buy it if it didn’t have Lock-outs. If it doesn’t have lock-outs, it would only be worth as much as $2500 in cherry condition, with lock-outs up to $4,500 have to be really cherry though.
They weigh 2 1/2 ton, so you should get a rigger to move it.

Thanks, Theo. It does have lockouts. Seller is asking $6k, which is obviously really high. I appreciate your advice and thanks for letting me know not to pay that much. :) how does one go about finding a rigger to help with the move?

K.B. little extra tips that may be of help, 10 x 15 H/berg platens weigh in at 2,850 lbs, give or take the weight of the motor, which if it is removed for transportation is a + because it tends to stand proud at the rear, but more importantly if the Machine is transported by Movers that know what they are doing, OR are told, that under the finger/clip that locates the chase, when removed there is large threaded hole for *RING BOLT* for shackling to the gib of the crane.!!!
As the bigger portion of the weight is slightly backward of the centre of gravity, (with or without the Motor) if the movers are aware of this, it can be turned to advantage in that for lifting on/lifting off and final positioning,! the drip tray is put down it its correct final position, with the obligatory Silhouette, marked out first, and then the Machine *registered* from the rear first etc. Possibly on leveling pads, unless your floor is good for *GO*
I make this point because with all the will in the world, The Absolute BEST *riggers* (as you call them,) without the knowledge of the *RING BOLT* start using strops, chains,
etc, and frequently crush protruding parts,? well documented!!!. . As H/berg, Platen,s were usually dispatched with *Ring Bolt* as part of the original tool kit, you may be lucky, perhaps, and find still on sight???
Dont let them use strops, it would be reasonable to expect a selection of ring bolts in the *Belly Box* of the truck.???

Should its final resting place be in a situation with restricted headroom, for long reach crane or similar, here (U.K.) We would resort to an Ordinary Car/Auto, (wheeled) Engine Removal Crane, to position the machine, in its operating position, BUT, ONLY, if all else has failed.?? . .

It is possible with a Pump Truck but laborious getting it down to floor level.!!
Hopefully helpful, Apologies if not.. . Good Luck

Thank you, Mick! Very helpful. I’ve been studying an old thread about moving a windmill and noticed that it was lifted with a crane. Guess it’s safe to say that I should only move it to its final destination. :)

Have you run a motorized press?

I advise against buying a Heidelberg until you have some training in their operation and a high proficiency with a motorized platen like a C&P.

These machines have no real safety features and can easily maim. A novice operator running a windmill is at significant risk, particularly if working alone.

There are studios in southern MI where you can build your skillset on hand fed presses, thereafter take classes on windmill operation, offered in various regions of the U.S.

Thanks, anonymouse. I’ll look into it.

Kristy, there are holes in the belly of the press, that I normally slide 2 Harden steel pry bars thru. They are spaced enough that if you have someone with a heavier bobcat, with forks that can reach under the bottom of the press. Lifting using the bars. A skilled rigger with a bobcat or equivalent would do a lot better to move this press, without lifting it very high. They will have the ability to only lift it 2 inches above the surface while moving. Yes $6,000 is way over priced. If your not in a hurry to purchase there are many that become available. If you haven’t ran a machine like this, you should get some training. (I do that) This machine can permanently disable you or even cause death. 2 hours of training could show you the safety and respect that is needed towards this machine.

The scariest part of running a windmill is these presses do not back up, you get caught in one and you are in trouble.

A windmill is a great machine when you have so much work that the hand-feeder can’t keep up: >1000pcs/day, >5 color changes, hairline register, etc. It’s an industrial production machine, much like any in a factory: fast, big, noisy, dangerous, complicated and very expensive to repair. (Frequently repairs are more than the original purchase price.)

By contrast, a motorised hand-feeder is quiet, very versatile (envelope bleeds, fabrics, odd shapes, etc.). They are often less expensive than tabletop presses, sometimes even free for the taking - and relatively easy to move. A novice printer can spend much more “quality time” exploring the craft than fighting with misfeeds and registration errors.

It is common to see maroon or red handle 10x15 Heidelbergs sell for $3000 - $6000 in good working order.

Again by contrast, a nice C&P purchase can leave enough money in the bank for all the associated equipment needed, a good paper cutter, bases, furniture, gauges, ink, rags, paper, benches and other workspace improvements.

I recall a veteran printer in the Detroit area looking for help with digital pre-press (vector art, plates, etc.), a time-swap for training on a treadle/motor C&P seems like a good arrangement. (Search BP for discussion or drop me a note.)

AM

This is all wonderful advice.

There are a few reasons I am looking for a windmill, in particular. The first is that I’ve outgrown my tabletop press. The second is that I need to cut my printing to one day (two if I’m lucky) a week without cutting the number of jobs I currently take on. I take care of my three year old daughter full time and am expecting a second around Halloween. Quitting printing is not an option that I can live with, so I will only be able to print when my husband is home on the weekends. I have been thinking that a windmill would be the best option to keep up with my current demand and to expand the number of jobs I take on in the future. Maybe this makes me crazy, but aren’t we all? ;)

I’m currently working on having a workshop built that I can keep the kids out of and considering the size/safety issues of a windmill, I might take the advice of AnonyMouse and purchase a C&P or similar. (Would love to get my hands on a Golding Jobber..) that I can put in my basement until the workshop is complete.

Theo, when I get my windmill, I would love to work something out for a little training. One thing I constantly wish I had is a mentor, or the freedom to do an apprenticeship.

I’m loving the advice on moving a windmill. Moving any press to my location is going to be difficult and require skilled help. I live (and work) on a one lane dirt road that has unfortunately not been properly maintained for many years. I swear that one of these days I’m going to wake up and the forest will have taken over my road for good. So all of this advice has been extremely helpful and everyone has given me much to consider.

Don’t tell Theo I said this but he really knows his stuff, you can’t do any better for a teacher, he runs windmills all the time.

Only two workable ways:
1. Lift via the iron crossbars enough to get a [beefy- don’t use something you just pick up] pallet under and then somebody can lift the pallet, Usually you need to custom build a pallet- and you need a pallet jack unless you’re lucky. You have to think ahead about horizontal clearances to use a forklift. It goes easier if you take the motor off.
2. If you have vertical access, the lifting eye is a risk free way. Parts list and illustrations below from archive. Get a guy with a big tow truck to plunk it on a low trailer. They don’t think of themselves as ‘riggers’ and because timing can be arranged in advance, they’re cheaper. I moved my 2 10x15s for $500 total, and I now have a manual pallet jack (craigslist) as a bonus.
http://www.briarpress.org/17238

I have the opportunity to get my hands on a black ball that was rescued from a print shop that was about to scrap it. It needs rollers recovered and is set up for scoring at the moment. Anything I should be aware of about this press? I really am not sure that I should purchase a black ball press at all, especially one that hasn’t run in a year, because I have never used a windmill before. Any tips?