Lubrication Oil

Is a standard Shell or Mobile motor oil okay to use to lubricate a C & P?

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Generally, a “straight-weight” (not multi-viscosity) oil is used.

e.g. SAE50, rather than 10w-40.

Tractor / farm / equipment stores sell big jugs of the stuff.

But any oil is better than none.

So like a Valvoline?

Personally, I use SAE30 non-detergent oil in my 8&12 NS. Since I don’t run my press enough to need more than about a quart every couple of years I buy it at Advance Auto Parts, but you should be able to get it at almost any automotive or tractor supply store.

Michael Hurley
Titivilus Press
Memphis, TN

“So like a Valvoline?”

The brand of oil is not significant, the viscosity (or “weight”) of oil is. Thin, light oils have a lower number; thicker, heavier oils have a larger number.

An old press can use anywhere from 30 to 80 weight oil. Worn journals may weep thin oils quickly, reducing the effective lubrication, so heavier oils may be better there.

Thank you!

Kenya Yvonne, looks as though you are getting some good feed back, just one little gimmick extra possibly!!!
As a good percentage of the Older Press,s have exposed Cogs & Pinions, (H. & S. is a new Phenomenon) and well documented need a little exrra and/or more frequent oiling, (also well documented that those machines work on constant loss oiling, hence Drip Trays etc)
The exposed gears/cogs oiled today, will by tomorrow, have, up to a point drained down, hence My Trick? (In use since 2/3 years ago, on the exposed gears/cogs of my Metalworking Lathe) *CHAIN SAW OIL* pumped on with a squirt can every 3/4 nights instead of every 3/4 hours.???
Makes a beautiful sticky Hiss, and the gears run so quite, I can hear the Radio, at 25% volume instead of 75%.
The *chain Saw Oil* sticks like the proverbial **** to a blanket, which is its very function on Chainsaws.??
Dont take my ramblings as gospel, Obtain if possible a tiny amount from Agricultural Engineers, or similar!! Give it a try.???
If your machine has the obligatory, grind or rattle, from the gear & pinion Train, (on the *over Run*) 2/3 squirts and you will think you have gone to Silent Heaven, and it will take, Metaphorically, a long time to drain down or wear off.!!!
P. S. If there should be an *East African* Connection, give me a call of line. Could be interesting.!!! . . Good Luck

I have heard about people using chain saw oil, if you think about it, the stuff is meant to stick to the fast moving chain. you don’t want something that is just going to run off. Good job Mick. ps baby goats about to come, how many do I put you down for Mick???

Dick. Thank you for your corroboration, the principle was not my original, it was my variation of a *Demo* unit in my local Motor Factiors, namely, an exhibit on the counter, clear perspex gearbox with 2 separate trains of gears, one with Brand *A* oil, (Actually Shell B.P.) and Brand *Z* (unspecified) with 2 tiny crank handles, turning 4 gears mounted vertically, brand *Z* let the oil climb to the top gear and collapsed almost immediately, Brand *A* transferred the oil to the top gear, and took considerable (relative) time to drain back down, so the *Old Goat* put 2 & 2, together and came up with Chainsaw Oil.

But this also partially influenced by methods on the Linotype/Intertype & Monotype for lubrication.
I.E. on the Monotype the *Desmodromic* Camshaft(s) run in a splash feed oil bath, whereas the Lino? seems to have Large capacity oil pots, feeding various parts, with capillary tubes,, or similar.? (Ottmar probably pinched the idea from Tolbert in the first place)??? Correct me if I be wrong,???

The Monotype gears, for the camshaft(s), were for many years, *OPEN* (exactly as many of the press,s are still now,) with one silly little oil hole, atop the rudimentary half guard, so what happened, (We all did it!) shove the squirt can, with long spout, at an angle into the gear train, (RUNNING), one squirt too many and chew the tip of the spout.??? Which gave rise, to the enclosed gear train, and tiny independant oil bath.

Presumably if Goats were the only living breathing beings, at time of, Lubing The lino, and could not be trained to *Send Lines away,* The lino(s) would have to be lubed, with the Mechanism Stationery. (non intended)

Thank you for the offspring offer, Pass, for time being, but I hope nobody tips My Daughter The wink, she would love your offer, But (our) D E F R A may be looking in.??
Dick, Good Luck, for Safe Delivery, with no Wrong Fonts. Mick.

I purchased SAE W75-90 Gear oil…how’s that?

That should be fine for a C&P. It will behave mostly like a 75-weight oil, since the temperature will not be anywhere near an engine’s temperature. (180F)

I’d also get an oil can and download the chart:

(I do like Mick’s suggestion of chainsaw bar oil… I’ll be trying that this year.)

Thank you all! I went to Home Depot and there were many chainsaw oils…didn’t know which one to choose.

For slow moving pinion trains you need open gear lubricant, a specific heavy grease. If you google ” open gear lubricant” you’ll get lots of hits. Some manufacturers / retailers will supply it in small amounts rather than huge industrial-size drums.

Open gear lubricant is important as it slows down considerably the rate at which pinion teeth wear.

For fast moving gear trains the machine will probably have been designed with an oil bath. In such a case, follow the viscosity ratings given in the handbook or, in the absence oif a handbook, post on here specifying which model of press you have - you’ll likely receive detailed advice.

Chainsaw oil is designed to provide both lubrication and cooling to the chain and bar at very high speeds - it has little pressure capability. The sprocket/link configuration has different demands than does the gear arrangement on most printing presses. Any 10w (or better) oil will provide adequate lubrication to the hand-fed presses regardless size. Generally, we are talking low revolutions/heavy pressue here. Should the issue of worn bearings come into play, adding an automotive transmission extender to your oil of choice will give that desired ‘tack’ allowing less drip and greater surface adherence. And, although counter-intuitive, using a heavier weight oil to bolster a worn bearing can often result in a ‘starved’ surface. The thicker oil simply does not flow easily enough to give sufficient coverage. Of course, should press bearings be so worn that lubricant drips freely from them, well, there is always the leather fix. :o)

Olde common wisdom said grease on gears and oil on bearings and other metal to metal surfaces. Thus some apply grease to the press gears.
Chandler & Price specified an oil for the press gears. There was no mention of grease.
Any oil is good for a press. About 30 weight is fine. I was taught that if there is no oil on the floor, you are not oiling often enough. Oil is cheap. Wear is bad. Get down and wipe up.

get some oil on your shirt. (right Inky)

I use Mobile DTE Oil Extra Heavy Circulating Oil on all my presses which include Heidelberg Platens, Chandler & Price, proof presses and paper cutters.