Is beechwood sufficient for making borders for printing?
Hello,
I’d like to make some borders for printing, right now just some straight lines, without any fancy stuff.
I know that maple and pear wood is traditionally used for woodletters and such, but the carpenter I asked for help right now has only beechwood in his shop.
He has all the needed tools to get it cut to the right size and hight, I just would like to know if beech is hard enough for printing.
Any help would be appreciated.
Beech, Oak, Maple, Hornbeam, ALL very good for reproducing PosterType/Wood letter, but generally in End Grain form.
Here U.K. several are reproducing the above, but as you imply that your use is to be long lengths, in the order of a *pica* wide, etc.
Beech would seem to be not quite suitable, i. e. plenty of strength for the impression but not too much for the side thrust, for borders some lengths would, by default, be taking a certain amount of side thrust in 4 borders attitude
One suggestion is (and we have used in the past} *RAMIN* strip as used for >Shelf & Worktop< edges it is strong in down-hand form and does stand a lot of side pressure, it is hard, even at a *Pica* or 1/8” x Type height to snap freehand.?
2 tiny gimmicks, from a long time ago, as most later day printers usually have access to a precision (Printers) power saw, (1) lock the feed table into a fixed position, lower the blade into the bed until the *Arc* of the blade will strip/rebate/chamfer any material fed past it, I.E. a strip can be camfered down from its original face (to view) to any desired point size, as in 4 point face on Pica base, (side face style,) or better yet, and we have done it,! strip down Pica base, on both sides to to make centre face, as in 2 Pt. on Pica = immensely strong product.
As done many years ago with 18 Pt, and 2 Em., D.I.Y. Strips when there was not sufficient strips of original material for Posters on the Wharfedale(s).
***Has been posted before in another, related, context with the Rouse power Mitre M/c. the same methods can be used, but many times better than the precision saw, above.
Up to 12 Point, material can be stripped down/chamfered to any thinner face, to view and print.
Because the Rouse Cutter can be fixed and click stopped down, (perfectly) AND the side gauge can be click stopped in, in Pica increments, (and we have) reproduced perfect Facsimiles, of traditional >saw edge< type rules.!!
Good Luck, Mick.. . 17/11/2016.
Hello Mick,
thank you for you answer.
I will ask an another carpenter who is specialised in hardwood furniture, I thonk he will be able to help me with finding the right wood and tools.