I have just had a Funditor saw reconnected to the power supply after about 40 years sitting in a corner and wondered if any one had an instruction manual as I would like to give the saw some lubrication but cannot find any grease points or similar. Look forward to hearing from any one that might have any information.
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Frank, from the top! as far as rusty memory permits:- the main spindle/arbor that carries the Blade , should find a *flip top* catch-pot that supplies the inner and outer bearings, (always thirsty)
The entire rise and fall system for the Blade mechanism carried in 2 vertical sliders, no specific oiling points, just line of sight and gravity, whilst Rising/Falling all the way Max./Min.
Next the (enclosed) Knee Joint with helical gears, for the full travel of the mechanism, although protected always gets a good ingress of swarf, lead and wood, usually one small bolt secures the cover, usually carries One tiny oil hole at top.!
Few seconds to remove, blow out the crap, good lube up.
Next Bearings at both ends of the horizontal shaft, to crank the helical gears, immediately behind the *Crank Handle* for the rise and fall.?
Next the VERTICAL *Archimedes Screw* for the Rise and Fall, goes through an exposed bronze/brass *Nut* not protected whatsoever, always VERY thirsty, again, lots of swarfe, blown out with spirit and Good Lube up.
Next and probably the most important, (safety and the smooth traverse of the sliding table)
The table is carried in/on 2 precision roller bearing tracks, with no logical means for lubrication, the tracks are very precise and need careful adjustments, via the Gib Plate and screws, seen under and left of the Table.
Normal and (usually) only way to lube efficiently both tracks, is to traverse the Table as far as possible in both directions, (there is a positive stop in the bed of the M/c. for limitation of travel) and fire a few shots of oil UP and UNDER, we have used Vaseline rather than oil, occassionally and >sticky< Chain Saw oil but they all seem to attract swarfe, just as quickly, but you are forewarned fairly quickly, because the bearings *Rumble* when performing those precision cuts/trims to the Plates etc.
Lastly, possibly,? the (pica) click stop-side gauge with the one Point click stop micrometer adjustment, is carried in 2 plain journal bearings, again with no logical means for lubrication, but line of sight and a few drops is good.
The One Point click stop is governed by a small single Ball Bearing and Spring, Needs a *droplet* now and then,! and can be Zero`d for accurate cutting/trimming. -
The depressible plunger, for the side gauge and the lead screw, deserve a tiny shot (oil) now and then.
***In most every case, and from a long time ago, standard 30 W Oil was used, everywhere.! Now outdated.!!
Frank, apologies for stating what may be the obvious, but offered in good faith, and from rusty memory and a LONG time ago. Mick
Mick, as usual all good fodder, will now have the fun of finding all said oil points. As a machine man I was not allowed to use this wonderful piece of eqiupment. Next task is to get the blade and trimmers sharpened, then set it up.
Also see if its possible to find a spare blade or 2.
ps how’s the V50 getting on?
Frank, with the arrival of Carbide/Tungsten tipped blades,(as my usual a long time ago - sorry) the 3 trimmers were just retracted into the hub, so the *tipped* Blades gave the final perfect edge, this ties in with Zero`ing the side gauge/fence.?
In original, Ex Factory delivery format, there would have been a dedicated Gauge/Setting block that sat against the side gauge at around the 30/36 Em mark, with 2 specific steps, one for the cut from the blade proper, and the other step for the trimmers, dispensed with, after the arrival of *Tipped* blades.
Also in Ex factory delivery issue, look carefully at the outer R/H end of the Hub & Spindle assembly, (just outward of the twin *V* belt drives), there is/was provision for fitting a small grinding wheel.
This wheel was used specifically and ONLY for regrinding the *trimmers* with the perfect, Rake & Angle for general purpose use, hence the trimmers were reground via the use of the >Holder/Gauge< provided which sat on the base/top of the saw,
With the flip top lid lifted, look carefully? should be seen a small (approx) 5 em x 5 em pointer, which when the rise and fall of the spindle column is aligned correctly, the Grinding wheel produces/produced the perfect Arc to >hollow grind< the trimmers, probably still be seen on the originals.!
Aftermarket blades are available, with the correct hub size, drilled and countersunk for the 3 retaining screws, but the 3 holes for the trimmers seem a little tricky to source, but with tipped blades are not required anyway.
May be able to find a serviceable, original blade,?
V.M. comes under the heading, work in progress, but keeps getting sidelined, but thanks for the thought. Mick
Afterthought whilst posting, and extremely important, FOR SAFETY, the product clamp is located, for position, at the rear of the Table with a small horizontal Peg which tends to get Ill treated, over time, and at the front of the Clamp is an eccentric Cam Lock which also needs special attention and care. The articulated mechanism for actually clamping the product gets slack on the links, and can be dangerous, there is a compression spring to the rear of the unit, which can be replaced.
The 90 degree, serrated, CLAW that actually clamps the product can become loose, must be efficient and tight.
Your memory is doing you proud. Have just taken off the tipped blade for resharpening and to see if the tool shop can find a backup blade. You are right about the trimmers they were retracted but have the setting block and the mitre attachment. Also have a spare clamp unit, so all in all not too bad. Just throw in a monotype question for you. Do you know how wood filled quads were made?
Frank, sounds good re the Atatchments, including and especially the 2nd, clamp unit, try to ascertain which is going to do the most efficient job, BECAUSE even gripping a small batch of leads, (say) only 50% of that which could be clamped, needs the best possible clamp/grip.??
Is the Rubber Jockey Wheel on the guard in good condition, check the bolt/axis that the guard swings up on, it is a >shoulder bolt< and needs to be in good condition.!!
Wood Filled Quads, on the Supercaster, normally 6 Em square (72 Point) via the use of a special purpose Matrix Holder, whereby the wooden Cores (X 4) were Impaled - for want of a better expression - on the matrix holder, inserted, with the cores, into the appropriate Bridge as for 72 Pt. Type and CAST, one at a time, including reloading the Matrix holder, for every Quad.
VERY, VERY, slow, very very laborious, i.e.72 Point Full face, Cap *W*, cap *M* for example had to be as little, at best, as low as 9 revs./Casts per minute, hence Wooden cored Quads were down to 1/4 of that speed.!!
PLUS with the high pressure from the Pump, to push that much Molten Lead, it was not unusual when an Inclusion occured and a *Splash* resulted, a fair amount of lead came out at approx. right wrist level, still have a few scars as evidence.
Although wooden cored quads lasted for along time, because they were recycled and involved removing the Plates and the Plate Tacks (into the wood cores)? eventually, a certain amount HAD to be remelted and the lead recast into ingots, unfortunately in the re-smelting the Wood Cores had to be burnt away, smelly, but usually paid a Bonus.???
Monotype Info above is not precise, just approximate, left the scene of (Supercaster) operations mid 80,s. Mick
Thanks again Mick. Do not have a wheel on the guard at present but should be easy to overcome.
Also thanks re the monotype quads, it seems as if the boss of my old company had a hand in the idea and worked with monotype to make it work.
Frank, will have 2 different Funditor,s on sight during the next 6/7 days, will take a couple of shots/pic,s of the part in question, and hope that I can transmit/send same.
If all else fails I have a (DEAD) 14 station collator, going for scrap! it is alive with *Pinch Wheels* one of which may well >Turn In,< Mick.