Heidelberg Tiegel Taper Pin Removal

They are machine set, means no hammering out or otherwise, if you drill them out, the smallest diameter end of the pin is your gude.

WHY take it apart, have rebuild plenty, never saw a need to take that area apart.

Not sure I follow the question completely or the comment. But… taking out taper pins has some basic rules, Get a large taper punch, make sure you know smallest end and have a big hammer. You get one good crack at pins don’t waste it by taps. Take one big wack. Also make sure you support thye part from any flexing.

prior owner(s) destroyed most of the ratchet gear (toothed sprocket) as well as the end of the pawl which engages that r gear. Thanks.

I’ve ground the small end of the pin flush before using the punch… to avoid mushrooming the end.

Slight mistake, i.e.grinding the tail end of the taper pin off, now You have to be much more precise positioning the punch, which, with respect does NOT need to be tapered, there is no point or need???

The method used for long long time was/is to use a substantial recoil block over the large head of the taper pin, (with a concave rebate to allow the taper pin room to exit the *boss* that carries it, at least the first .002” - .003”, then it The pin, will tap out with a toffee hammer.)

RECOIL Block, ideally, 2/3/4 Lb. lump of lead, as in Panel beaters *Dolly* !!!
Slightly harder now with the tail end ground down, should have been, one substantial blow, with the recoil block in place, normally the tail end (smaller) is convex domed, to to allow for extraction.
If Your Wittenburg, U.S.A. can not help with parts, our Senior Graphics U.K. will certainly be able to, NEW from stock or Second hand, they ship worldwide.

[email protected]

Happy to call up, - Seniors, - Local Landline, from within the U.K. and relay results via B.P. forum., given the request.
Good Luck. H.V.

so you are advising a large mass with a small indent for the head of the pin be held firmly against the structure and the small “domed” end of the pin be struck with a flat ended punch with a substantial blow from a hammer? thank you. i am clueless about Panel beaters and *Dolly* ;-)

Apologies, for my use of the term *Dolly* U.K. term, no U.S. literal equivalent maybe, but in essence the means to cushion and distribute the the impact of the initial blow(s) for release purpose,s as in taper PIN(S) etc.

One small extra tip, perhaps when replacing components, (including Taper Pins) usually new parts will have only nominal alignment holes, and should be refitted with care and gentle positioning, i.e. with the respective size holes adjacent to the relevant corresponding through hole(s) in the original shafting, by use of a Dummy sacrificial taper pin tapped in gently, to achieve overall alignment.
Dummy pin tapped out, and most importantly replaced part(s) reamed out, with with Tapered reamer to give perfect alignment, throughout A+B, replace new Taper pin gently/progressively (before final fitting) to achieve approx 5% protrusion at small end, (or thereabouts) with 10-15% protrusion at larger end, - see other fittings on same machine.
Has been established before that generally, Your hardware outlets (U.S.) stock and supply wide range and selection of
Taper pins, *IMPERIAL* for Your home grown Printing Machines and *METRIC* for Heidelberg and similar.

Selection of Taper Pins to cover the range and size
required is likely to be *Cents* rather than *$ Dollars*.

Have several time in the past effected repairs to the same section, and situation, but only when the pawl has been worn down and when all else has failed, ? removed the *pawl* bronze welded and built up a new tip, and re-contoured by hand, when the operator gave up hanging ever increasing lumps of lead on the pawl.

Again Good Luck. H.V.

Mr “H V.”……as you seem to be communicating again…reminder I am at Amberley Museum this Sunday Dec 3rd…………..got your email up and running??????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I actually understood your posts, I must have learnt something last coupla years………..see ya round pal.