C&P New Style 10x15 restoration


I am just beginning to restore a C&P 10x15 New Style Press and am looking for assistance with the following. The serial number of the press, C77137, indicates that this was made in the early 1960s.

I am interested in acquiring/purchasing the following.

- foot treadle
- single phase motor (the press came with a three phase so i might just convert that)
- furniture (metal)
- high speed quoins (and keys)
- another chase
- cutter (manual or electric, C&P, Challenge, not sure which size yet)

The feed boards that came with the press are damaged (one is missing its other half) and I am going to recreate them. Can someone tell me the dimensions (length/width/thickness) of these boards? Also, what kind of wood were these made of originally? I’d like to use the same kind of wood as the original.

I’m looking for any information that will help me to restore the press as close to the original as possible. Does anyone have any information on the late model New Styles (early 1960s)? Any pictures of original or accurately restored presses (similar to this one) would be very helpful.

Additionally, any feedback on approaches for restoring this press would be appreciated. I’m planning to follow the guidelines recently posted by Devils Tail Press here www.briarpress.org/16547 (ZipStrip, Sherwin Williams primer, Rustoleum paint). I may use the vinegar/lemon juice approach to remove rust as my first step. What other restoration techniques have you used (materials used to strip, prime, paint)? I’m still sorting through the discussions here on Briar regarding the best oil to use for the press. Any insight into that would be helpful as well.

I’m also curious what others have done for the following. After stripping, ideally, the cast iron would be cleaned off (water), dried completely, then primed immediately before rusting begins. Any ideas for “preserving” the paint-stripped pieces until I have several pieces ready to wash off and dry? I’m thinking that I’d probably rent an air compressor for a day and wash/clean all parts and prime in one day. But, again, I’ll need the paint-stripped pieces to sit in something to avoid rusting until I am ready to wash/dry/prime.

What restoring techniques do you recommend for the “shiny” finished parts of the press like the back shaft and other lower shafts? Just curious what works well for optimizing these parts.

Finally, there is one part that came with the press that I can’t identify (see pic below). What part is this and what is its purpose? I’m not even sure if it is part of the press. It doesn’t appear to be.

Thanks so much for any information that you can provide.


image: Picture1.jpg


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I’ll disagree with Paul on treadling the 10x15. There’s only one more revolution of the flywheel than an 8x12 per impression. If your flywheel shaft has the crank on it, I’d go for the treadle. Once you’re up to speed there’s very little extra effort. I feel a treadle give you much more control over the press’s operation.

A nice reproduction treadle can be purchased from Hern Iron Works (check the yellow pages on this site or use Google). We have a 10x15 OS at the University that I teach students how to use with a treadle.

Joshua, without a scale in the photo it’s hard to say what the extra part is — but it’s a lot like the replacement treadle I designed for a 12x18 C&P at Virginia Commonwealth University. Yours has two holes at each end of the open side and an unidentifiable bump or two in the middle crossbar area. If a treadle hook could be attached to the crossbar and if the holes would accomodate a couple of u-bolts that would fasten it to the cross rod at the rear bottom of the press frame the piece would work the same as the treadle we made.

I agree with Arie — treadling is my preferred means of press propulsion for runs under 1000. It gives much more speed and stopping control and keeps the leg muscles toned.


Thanks team. All of this is very helpful.

I’ll have to read up on how the foot treadle attaches to the press but the flywheel shaft on my press is completely straight. It seems that a treadle from Hern Iron Works is not an option then for this press? I have been in contact with them and the pics they sent of their treadles look nice.

I’ll look more closely at how this mystery piece could be used as a motor mount or treadle (if this unique treadle can be used on a straight shaft press). Bear with me here, I have some homework to do. :)

Thanks again! Ask me a question about Adobe software or something to even things out!?


If you have a straight shaft — no crank offset near the middle of the press — the treadle is not an option unless you get a different flywheel shaft. The mystery piece could be a motor mount — scale is an issue again. If the press has a pulley on the opposite end of the flywheel shaft from the flywheel and the mystery piece can be mounted so that a motor shaft would extend into the plane of that pulley, it certainly could be used that way. Alternatively, it could be used with a larger belt around the flywheel and motor pulley. My guess would be that it was attached to the rod across the press frame at the bottom rear, using u-bolts, and was held off the floor by belt tension so that the motor’s weight provided the belt tension.


It’s likely a motor mount. Look at the lower crossbar on the part and you’ll notice an eye for a bolt. This would probably be the bolt that attaches the mount to the press to control tension. That’s my guess anyway.

I just measured the part and it is approximately 12” wide by 29” in length. It does seem that it is indeed some kind of motor mount but the motor that came with the press doesn’t seem to logically fit onto it. They may have previously had some kind of platform between motor and mount that I am unaware of. I also don’t see markings of any kind on the press (or pallet) indicating that the mount was attached to the press.

I’m surprised that the later New Style presses (early 60s) weren’t built to be treadle friendly. I’ll look for either a bent shaft and/or a single phase motor or convert from the three phase motor that came with the press. As of now, I’m not sure what to expect for print quantities.

Devils Tail, I’m going to start the restoration this weekend as I’ve got most of my supplies (zip, primer, etc.). Home Depot didn’t have the semigloss black so I just need to track that down (they have the flat black at least). I’m curious what you use for rust removal? I used the vinegar/lemon juice approach for my Craftsmen tabletop restoration and it worked very well. Just curious what you’ve had success with.

Oh, I wish I worked with mud and straw all day (I think) but Adobe is the maker of pixel pushin software including InDesign, Photoshop. Much more my area of expertise (I work for an advertising agency in Denver). Letterpress has proven to be such a great escape from the digital world. :)

I’ll have to look up where each of you are from. Thanks and take care.



Nice tips and tricks, Paul. Thanks again.

I have heard mention of some kind of “blue filler” in the forums to fill holes/low spots in the cast iron. Can someone touch upon what product is typically used for this?

Also, any recommendations for removing the drive pulley from the press? I have removed the 3 bolts but am unclear as to how this is still attached to the shaft. Is a key used to attach this pulley? It doesn’t seem to want to budge.



image: drive_pulley.jpg



I am in the middle of restoring an old style C&P 10x12. My plan is to make all the bare metal parts shiny and clean, and to strip/repaint any parts that were originally painted.
I’d like to know specifically what type of black paint I should use. jjdewit - did you get paint yet?
A friend of mine told me that the paint should be somewhat impervious to solvents - but does such a paint exist?

Also - I’ve been using scotchbrite pads and prep-n-etch to remove the rust. Is the prep-in-etch a bad idea?


I’ve never used any type of acid to clean any of the antique machines I’ve restored. I use 3M green or red pads, sandpaper in various grits from 80 to 220, and WD40. For parts such as screws or other appropriate-sized parts I use a wire wheel on a grinder. These materials take plenty of elbow grease but do the job without undue harshness or damage to the metal. Misc. tools such as putty knives, pipe cleaners, etc. help as well.

On the other hand, I restored a galley proof press last year that was so badly rusted (though not beyond restoration) that there was no choice but to sandblast it. Suit the method to the situation.

I try and avoid repainting unless absolutely necssary. When I do repaint I use an oil base paint, usually an exterior paint or floor paint because they are very durable with regard to oil, solvents, and general wear. Of course, the actual wear the paint will be subjected to will be minimal at best so it’s not ncessary to go crazy. Home Depot or any good paint store will have a suitable paint. Rust-o-leum is OK or a house paint. I used a Sherwin Williams house paint on the galley proof press.

Before painting the main thing is to clean the surface of oil and dirt. After getting the sludge and grim off I do a final wipe with laquer thinner before painting. I always use a brush rather than spray. You get better coverage, no overspray on the rest of the machine or room, and often don’t need to mask off.

For antique machines that were originally black I’ve found that a satin/semi-gloss finish looks better than a gloss.

It’s possible to do a Smithsonian-like restoration with sand-blasting and powder-coat paints and clear topcoats, etc. But that’s time consuming, expensive, and unnecessary. I love the end result but am reminded of the old Roman adage about chastity: it’s a virtuous quality best appreciated in others.


Front Room Press
Milford, NJ



Hi Sarah,

That’s great that you are restoring your press.

To answer your question, I am using the Rustoleum oil based enamel. 50% gloss black mixed with 50% flat black. I purchased at Home Depot and they weren’t able to mix them for me so I did on my own.

Really, I have been following Paul’s (Devils Tail Press) recommendations for painting a press. It is going very well.


For rust removal, I have had great success with 4 parts vinegar, 1 part lemon juice. Home Depot has a large black plastic bin that is pretty shallow (about a foot high). I make a bath of vinegar/lemon juice and soak parts in it. Depending on the rust, I usually let the parts sit in there for 30+ minutes (sometimes more). Then, I’ll use scotchbrite pads (finer grits) and/or brass wire brush in the bath to remove the rust. Works like a charm. It’s nice because the bath essentially does the work for you while minimizing scrubbing, etc.

Keep me posted on your progress!


Thanks, guys. Josh - what parts are you soaking? And what do you do with the pieces that are too big to fit in the tub you bought? I haven’t taken the press apart. It’s still intact, and I’ve been applying this prep-n-etch stuff, then removing it and using WD-40. The acid works fantastic and super fast. But should I not be using this? Am I doing harm to the press and just not realizing it? Rich: you seem opposed the use of such chemicals - why didn’t you say something earlier!?
Paul: your post about painting presses is wonderful - thank you!
Here are some photos of the press (in progress). Rich, you are in one of these:


Sarah, I’m disassembling the press completely and soaking pretty much everything to rid of as much rust as possible. The large pieces I’ll hold in/over the bath and soak and scrub with a wire brush and/or scotchbrite pad.

Then, I place in ZipStrip and use the same procedure to remove paint (not a bath, just enough to cover the areas that I am removing paint). I have found that the ZipStrip evaporates quickly so it helps to brush/etc. the paint off before it all dries.

From there, I clean with mineral spirits, then rinse with water.

Finally, blow dry with air compressor. Prime. Paint.

Again, thanks to Paul for his assistance with this!

I can’t speak to the acid that you are using as I have never used it.

Here’s a pic of the plastic bins and the tasty vinegar/lemon juice concoction. Please don’t taste it! :)

Feel free to ask questions. I’m in the middle of this right now and would be happy to share thoughts, experiences, etc.

image: Picture-5.jpg


I’m not opposed to the acid, I’ve just never used it restoring machinery and have had very satisfactory results. On the other hand, if I hadn’t had a sandblaster at work available for the galley proof press I would have used it for that. I have a Model 17 Vandercook awaiting restoration that has a rusty bed which, while not in really bad shape, has more rust than I’d care to spend sanding and scrubbing on without something more aggressive to remove the bulk of the it before using my usual methods. So I’ll be using the acid on that when I get to it.


Front Room Press
Milford, NJ

Reading all this, I start wondering what it is all about. Restoring a press to pristine condition or wanting to print! What does it matter if the machine is not in its original colour anymore, or has a bit of grease on some parts. Are you trying to create museums or something like that? Keep it oiled and running! And have fun printing! I do agree rusty parts should be cleaned, but when I read some of the posts I start to fear that restoring takes the upper hand here.

It can be, and is for me personally, about enhancing the condition of a press and printing. Not one or the other.

It’s all a matter of personal preference, Thomas.