C&P 8x12 through what size door?

Has anyone had experience moving a completely assembled (flywheel and crankshaft installed) through a +/-36” opening? I measured the press in both directions and it is slightly larger, but wasn’t sure if I could angle the crankshaft through and somehow still manage to get it through the opening. I have had no luck removing the gib pin that holds the crankshaft pinion gear in place. I can’t seem to get any good leverage to hit it out because the gear itself is in the way, so if I can move it complete I will. Thanks-

Leslie

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If you take the feed and delivery tables off, you should be able to take advantage of the space in between the table supports to jockey the press through the door. Especially if you’re working with a flat surface. Put one support through; swing the other end of the press through; then pull the other support through. The press is shorter back to front than side to side, if the press is in the closed position.

It’s easier if the press is on a pallet jack, but it can be done on iron rollers. If I remember it right the last time I did this, I had a 32” door and I had to take off the flywheel, too.

If you need just a bit more space, then taking off the doorframe is easier than further disassembly of the press.

Also if you’re going to try Arie’s way close the press it will bring the top in some. Dick G.

Arie-

The +/- 36” IS with the doorframe already removed. I have already moved the delivery and feed tables but I measure 37” with the press closed from front to back and 37” side to side as well. It will be on a pallet jack, however there is a step at the opening. Sounds like this might be a bit of an adventure. The Uni I went through straight with about 1/2” to spare! I wish I could get the flywheel off, but everything from heating the keyway to aggressively tapping at the gib key has led me to believe I don’t have the strength/right tools to remove it. There is about 1” between the head of the gib key and the pinion gear and I can’t get sufficient leverage/angle to give it a good whack with anything. Thanks for the tips.

Leslie

You might try taking a chisel and creating a groove on the top of the key about 3/16” to 1/4” away from the end, to get a footing, then smack it out with the chisel using a heavy hammer. It should be persuaded to come out! Maybe a hacksaw would help making the groove. Once the “seal” is broken, it’s easy. I understand the awkward angle but I believe you can get it. Be careful not to break a gear tooth.

The key on the drive sprocket is a tapered key. To take the gear off you need to tap the gear in towards the frame of the press. The key will then loosen and you can remove the key and the gear.

David-

The gib key has a head already on the end, so the issue is getting enough leverage with the chisel practically vertical to hit it out.

Joe-

I tried tapping the gear towards the press, but feel like maybe a different tool than what I have might be better, because I couldn’t get that to move either :(

I read many of the previous threads about options for removal, but haven’t gotten any to work yet…

Just a thought. If the widest point is the width of the drive shaft including wheel or the width of the wheel the other way, maybe you can go at an angle to jimmy around the extra one inch. As I said, just picturing it in my minds’eye. If your base is narrower, try maneuvering.

mike

When you are hitting the gear, it will help to A) use an end grain piece of hardwood (oak or maple are good) about an inch and a half square and maybe a foot long, against the gear and B) hit the other end of it pretty hard with about a 3lb hammer. Turn the gear as you hit it so you are working your way around the circumference. The piece of wood will prevent damage to the gear while transmitting the force pretty efficiently and getting you out in the open where you can swing the hammer. Or you could try getting a slide hammer to try to pull the key, but that will be more difficult to find and may not grab the key satisfactorily. And you’ll still have to deal with the mushroomed end of the shaft by filing it down after you get the gear moved a little.

Bob

Bob’s right, all you need is a good hammer and a piece of wood. If it doesn’t come off after several good wacks you could use the hammer to demo the door frame. :)

Leslie:

Just went down to my 8x12 OS C&P and measured the press in the closed position with the throw-off in the print position. So the press is effectively on impression (though there is no type in the bed) and the rollers are at their highest point on the ink table. I measured from the backplate (it sticks out further than the flywheel) of the roller arms to the point between support arms for the delivery table. This is about 30”.

The support arms stick out further, but this is not important. Position the press crosswise on the pallet jack (I’m assuming the press is on skids…if not put some 2x4s under the press), come at an angle to the doorway and put one side of the doorway in between the delivery table support arms. Turn the pallet jack handle at an sharp angle and rotate the press through the doorway, pivoting around the point between the delivery table support arms. It should be an easy fit.

You may have a NS press, and the distances may vary slightly, but still 36” is a great plenty. I went back and measured the doorway I went through. (I was moving the press from one side of the basement to the other. The doorway is 29 1/2” It was tight, and I did have to remove the flywheel, but that’s all that came off. If I’d had just a couple of more inches, I wouldn’t have had to remove that.

The step is a larger problem, but I’d build a platform out of lumber to fit on the low side of the door and get the press up on that then proceed as above.

ps. You don’t say where you are. Maybe there’s someone nearby who could assist.

Arie-

That was a huge help, thank you. I was taking exactly those measurements earlier tonight, imagining putting the press in between the brackets tight to the frame and basically angling the flywheel in.

I hit that pinion gear with the block of wood as suggested with every bit of force I had and it didn’t budge so it’s going in like this if it can.

I live in Florida but not to worry, I hired professional riggers to move it in, I was just trying to make everything go as smoothly as possible. They moved my Uni I in last year seamlessly (through the aforementioned opening and over the pool) - after that I decided I would never even attempt a press move without pros. The pool is about 18” from the door to the print room adding even more excitement to the whole thing :-)

Leslie

Well the answer is….

YES, quite easily in fact. Pics attached for fun :)

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Those lads look as if they could move a grand piano up five flights of stairs and through a keyhole! Well done!

Glad it went well.