C&G Saw

I am attaching a photo of a C&G saw that I have. It has a pistol grip to move the blade up and down, but I can’t get it to move. Does anyone have a saw like this and can enlighten me?

image: Saw.jpg


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I have one like that but have not had a problem. Maybe the spring release in the handle is stuck or broken in the lock position. I notice your guard is not all the way down. Why is that. It may be related.

Does the guard have to be over the blade in order for the mechanism to work? I do not have any documentation.

I have this saw too! I think longdaypress is referring to the piece of table that lifts up between the blade and the outboard wheel. When your blade drops down far enough, that piece will follow.

As he also mentioned, pushing the trigger on the handle should release the mecanism. You should also be able to turn the knob on the end of the handle for a fine-grain adjustment, or if you have the patience, to adjust the blade all the way up and down. If that knob isn’t turning, I think a good soak in penetrating oil would be the first place to start.

GUESStimates & calculations from afar, conjecture only, woild expect to see, low down and towards the rear, a substantial, thumbsrew/wingnut to lock the blade & hub in any given position!! Or the actual *TRIGGER* on the pistol grip actuates a dog, on the base which engages with a ratchet to give positive location!!! The format appears to be such that the blade & the hub rise and fall as one, the dummy platform to the right of the blade, probably rises or is pushed up by the hub, and then would flip right out of the way, to enable the blade to rise out of the bed to its limit to face of product nearly to the diameter of the blade. (WITH SAFETY PARAMOUNT)
You should find that the blade/hub can be retracted into the base completely and with care raised in tiny increments to UNDERCUT, to very fine limits, furniture, type, blocks, plates etc. If the blade is not yet Tungsten tipped, perhaps ascertain if such is available, strange anomoly but lead/type matter (although seemingly soft) slaughters a normal wood blade very rapidly!!! With a Tungsten or Carbide tipped blade virtually every L/press print item, can be trimmed down. Here in U.K. Virtually everybody (print orientated) uses our English *Funditor* Saw trimmer, my most treasured Tool is a *Miller,s Saw Trimmer* by Millers out of Pitsburgh, a long long time ago.
***See my cry for help on B.P. 7th November 2013 , caption MILLERS SAW TRIMMER.***
My miller Machine with tipped blade, will trim blocks, (inc Hardwood) reglet, aluminium furniture, brass rule (acquired technique) paxolin/resolite furniture, (IF necessary) it stinks like the proverbial skunk!!! and of course Monotype, Linotype, Ludlow & Elrod product, but lead as little as possible for the reason above??
With the probable vintage of this machine in mind, there would probably be NO micro switch, incorporated in the guard assembly, if the guard assembly is present but not fitted, it would normally be hinged at the very rear of the table, to be able to be hinged right up and over, to enable large flat sheets to be passed over the blade, safely!!!
Our Funditor saw/trimmers are equipped with such assembly, the guard completely obscures the blade PROTECTS the fingers, but at the front carries a built in rubber wheel which rides over any item being cut, on the pass through (cut) and protects fingers ALMOST infallible??? I quote from experience, but in any case structural modifications to the tip of the first finger, on my left hand, would not have made any difference to the major chords on the guitar, I never learned, anyway.
Apologies for the crap, hope it helps, (possibly) Good Luck.!!

Mick: You’re just about right on the mark with your description of how the mechanism is expected to behave.

platenpress: Photo 1 and 2 show the dog mechanism, the first photo with it engaged, and the second with the trigger depressed and the dog disengaged. Comparing those photos to your saw should give you a good ideas if that mechanism is functioning properly or not.

Photo 3 shows the grub screw at the lower end of the arm that you need to remove in order to free that end. If giving the threads a good oiling doesn’t work, I would suggest freeing the lower end of the arm, then turning the knob at the end until the two pieces come apart. Check inside the trigger portion of the arm to see if anything is disfigured, or if a piece of type metal is loved in there preventing the trigger from releasing.

Hopefully these help, it took some acrobatics to get the light right and the camera focused on the right things.

image: saw1.jpg


image: saw2.jpg


image: saw3.jpg


Keelan, thanks Buddy, for corroboration, my efforts were only guesswork based on a little hindsight, but if the Good Buddy gets the answer, via B.P. good news, all round!!
Regards Mick.

Hey platenpress, mine does not have the pistol grip but I’m posting pics. Mine has a spring loaded pin that locks at pre detirmned heights as well as a hand turned lock that you can lock at any height. Perhaps this will help locate the issue.
Also if the screws that hold the blade on are not tight they will catch and hang up. Also on mine the whole motor moves with these parts so check that there is nothing interferring with the motion in that area.

image: C&G saw hole for pin.jpg

C&G saw hole for pin.jpg

image: C&G saw pin.jpg

C&G saw pin.jpg

try again

image: C&G saw pin.jpg

C&G saw pin.jpg

The ampersand is doing you in — try substituting a lc “n” for it.

last try

image: CnG  saw pin.jpg

CnG saw pin.jpg

so here’s the other side

image: CnG saw hole for pin.jpg

CnG saw hole for pin.jpg