Die cutting on 13x18 Windmill

Hey guys, i live in South Africa and have just purchased a 1953 Heidelberg 13x18 Windmill. Im looking to do die cutting initially on it and have read the manual countless times and read posts on this site. What im struggling to find is either a post or video explaining the set up of such a machine for die cutting, especially how to actually allign it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Picholas, In essence there is no difference to Diecutting on the 13 x 18 H/berg Platen than to Deicutting on the 10 x 15, Platen!!! Just that the 13 x 18 is bigger/heavier forme to reach over and into the M/c with.
The system for the cutting plate is just that much bigger, but unfortunately a lot more expensive, currently somewhere close to £125 Sterling + U.K. V.A.T. + P. & P. Probably equates to 3,000 S. A. Rand/ You must surely better than that, locally, i.e Cape Town I negotiated some 2/3 yrs. since for Monotype Equipment from a large firm in *the Cape* where they ran, H/berg, Cylinders & platens, so it is fair to assume that they would source, such supplies *Locally* >Printers Graphics.< Or steel stockholders/fabricators, given enough, info of course.”“.

Here in U.K. usually by force of circumstances, or lack of funds, it was/is fairly common to make our own, for Platens,!! (NOT cylinders) Stainless steel plate, sourced from our local steel stockist,s, guillotined to the correct width for the platen, with 2 return edges, (top & bottom) to exactly locate under the normal Tympan & Packing, securing bars, themselves retained by the 4, sprung clips, N.B. But normally here U.K. the back of the cutting rules, protecting the *Bed* of the machine(s) with *pen steel, shim tape* It (the cutting rule) has/does & can cause damage at the back.!!!
Back Posts, possibly? here on B.P. appertaining to.???

Modest back up OFF Line, possibly, if all else fails.
Good Luck. Mick

Mike, thanks for the reply, yes i understand the machines are quite similar for die cutting. I phrased my question a bit off previously. I understand how to set up the machine for die cutting and i have a steel jacket, 2 chases, few quions and furniture but i am strugling to understand how to make sure your die is registered with the paper when locking up as you theres only minor adjustments with the paper when using the brass guides.


Picholas, unfortunately my knowledge & (alleged) expertise, or lack of, is restricted more so, to running repairs rather than full out operating, however have picked up, hopefully, a fair amount of info, follows thus:- as I understand when working with lays the stock is positioned hard against the left hand guide, on the feed stack, which is backed of to the stop, l/h, dropped onto the lays, which have limited variation!! but here it gets complicated, (which by default I have solved up to a point)
When and if your are working with good presumably expensive stock, Pre cut and without the option of cutting to waste after die cutting, assuming that your die-makers have the same restrictions as here U.K. they seem to be and restricted, with the base material used, in getting closer than about 18 point, with the cutting rule to the edge of the die, less than that amount of salvage, (at the edge) and the thin strip becomes unstable,!!
My solution was/is, (with the benefit of a precision Power saw) is to trim out the thin strip, which is to come close to the lay edge and replace with 6 point strip of mild steel or aluminium, and fine/slender screws, into the parent base material, either through the original *notched punched out* horse-shoes or the cutting rule, drilled through for slender screws, as it is bent/formed *cold* it is not hard to drill.!!
I am NOT implying that l could get to the point of being able to *Bleed* on the lay edge, but certainly closer than with *average?* cutting formes. But will still be a fine balancing act, between Grip, Lay Guages, and size of stock and limitations of close register imposed by the Die.!!
Not a problem, Generally, in commercial Print Shops, here U.K. the *Dies* are made massively oversize, the stock is cut, also, massively oversize, wether it be for Platen or Cylinder!!! No problems with close register, but the amount, trimmed out TO WASTE? makes most Hobby Printers/Retro Printers Weep, but fortunately, bribery and corruption, is Alive and Well, so we have heard.! Good Luck. Mick.

Hi you need to do the adjustments with the furniture you can tape or glue a sheet to the steeljacket and then tape a carbon paper to the sheet you are using., for make ready that will be printed on your steeljacket in case of creasing etc on the tympan and will also give you an exact reference about where to move your die and do the make ready.
thats a very nice press you have.
good luck

The chase is marked on the right hand side and bottom that shows you where the paper margins are (gripper and guide). Take the piece of paper you want to diecut and with an exacto knife cut away a piece that is to be diecut in the correct position. Place that piece of paper on the chase with the gripper and guide edges on the marks on the chase. Place your die in the chase and align so that it matches the position on your cutout sheet. Use furniture and quoins to fill the chase.
Look on page 43 of the manual It is basically the same as getting position with your printed image. You don’t use tympan paper, you use your diecutting jacket. You will probably need some packing under the jacket depending on paper weight and thickness of your jacket.
I hope this answers your question.

Hi girl with a kluge i disagree with you you need to glue asheet on the tympan as i described above because often your dies includes cutting and creasing rules and the creasers needs a special traetment:-)heavy stock cut out on each part of the rule forming a bridge that is glued to the sheet, its just a tips there is often many ways to achieve similar results the glued paper on the stelljacket is easy to remove if you use im not sure how you say it in english but it is the regular white school glue that is washable with a sponge a and water i usually put some nafta in it and use abrush to paint the steel jacket so i have avery thin layer that dries fast and dosent curve your sheet

Also the make ready of the creasers need to be very thight for best results

Hello, thanks for all the replies, i understand what your saying girl with a kluge and i also get what you mean phase4 with tbe creases. Luckily my first die is just cutting and no creasing so i will give your method ( girl with a kluge ) a go first.

Thanks again for the replies