Nuarc NL22-B8 Imaging system

Hello, wondering if anyone can help. I am looking for a good used polymer plate maker for my Heidelberg windmill and I came across a Nuarc NL22-B8. I’m new to the game so I am hoping someone can help me understand if this (assuming it works) is a good model and would do the job

Thanks so much


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Polymer plates require UV light for exposure.

You may want to investigate further, but likely the Nuarc model you mentioned is meant for offset plates.


Thank you Michael. Makes sense. Any thoughts on the type/make of plate maker I should be looking for. I’d be happy with DIY plans

Thanks again


JDWilson, The Nuarc machine is an exposure unit, it needs to have the correct spectrum bulb for photopolymer plates.This means it only exposes the plates.So you would have to washout your plates by hand,blow dry and post expose your plates for this kind of machine. A platemaker is a different beast usually they are a self contained machine which has a wash out tank, a exposure unit, and drying units all in one machine and they are pricey. If you can I would take a class
and then make your choice then. Best james

James — can someone A) get their hands on the right spectrum bulbs and B) install them in a Nuarc?

I ask as someone who is potentially willing to hand-wash plates if I can get a good exposure and save money. :)

AnnieW, Yes you can get the correct bulb for the photopolymer
plates. Usually these plate burners came with a bulb for offset plate exposing. In the housing that holds the bulb will more than likely have a glass protector in front of the bulb,this will have to be removed so you can get to the bulb.It should have a switch that press’ up against the glass for proper use. The glass is there so you are protected from the bulb exploding. The bulb should come with white gloves use these to keep your greasy fingerprints off the bulb. I’d go the Nuarc site and gor from there. best james

Hello, I have a 1951 Heidelberg windmill that I recently acquired. It is in great working order, perfect registration but the platen is covered in what appears to be the dried on remnants of drying powder, along with a bit of rust.
I have tried everything to remove it including varsol, acetone, rust remover and a whole lot of elbow grease but it is a slow, painful process. I have been scraping and steel-wooling until I am blue in the face.

Any thoughts on how best to clean this kunk off?

Appreciate any help,

J.D.W. In all probability the remnants of Anti Set Off Spray OR Anti Set Off, powder, the spray was liquid, of course, the Powder was usually referred to as *Intergram* french chalk was often a temporary substitute, but all were notorious for clogging up everything, especially the bank of 4 nozzles on Heidelberg Cylinders that employed telescopic arms to span sheets across the entire printed range.
We found that virtually the only way to decontaminate was to immerse the entire Head(s) 4 arms and the Hub, in boiling water laced with conventional, good quality Washing up liquid, even and including the Single Head unit (with Rose attached) often fitted to Heidelberg Platens.!

Doug, obviously immersing the platen is not an option, but applying Hot Poultices, to the face of the platen may be an option, again hot detergent based, with several layers at a time with redundant towelling etc.
Good Luck. Mick - U.K.

JDW - Normally the platen is covered by die plate or typan. Sometimes press powder can build up. Since it is water soluble it will clean of with plain hot water but wont clean off with solvent. You might try soaking a very thin cotton rag or towel in hot water and locking it in behind the die jacket for 15 minutes os so. DON’T run the press with this in place. That may loosen what is there and allow to clean off. I get this all the time on my printing press chrome and found years ago it wont clean off with blanket wash but cleans right up with tap water. You want to try Aerokroil. It is a spray like WD40 but leaves to film behind when it drys. I stopped using WD 40 a number of years ago and found this works a lot better. More than once I have sprayed a tight bolt and let it sit and latter got it to move.