Sheet Length

We have a 10 x 15 windmill. We want to run a 18pt card sheet longer than the press spec (16.5 - 17 inches) and wonder if it is possible and how to proceed, what to watch out for. What is the longest sheet you have run?

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Clean everything and if you can run wider than the final trim, especially the long edge which would be towards the guides. Perhaps run without guides with the feed pile far to the right, top.
All that extra length is going to touch and slap in the fulcrum area of the press. Any oil or ink will get picked up on the sheet edge, hence it would nice to trim it away after the run. I’ve done full horizontal scores, short run when necessary. I drop the delivery table about five inches to let the sheet fall in rather than off the back.

i fed a 9” x 20” sheet today. Major “whipping” or flapping of the long tail. delivery is the other big issue. i will try again with different sucker tips. i wouldn’t plan on register any better than what your arms will do, as the stops seem way out of the question. i will work on this again.
Any better clues as to what stock you are trying to run, would help. IE: Size; weight; grain direction, thickness; coated; uncoated; text; cover; whatever info is more.

Good info. I wonder and pondered the whipping and wondered if it was best down by the guides or high and right at the top of the platten. We are looking at a 6 by 17 inch 18 pt Sundance 110 cover. We need to print and then score/die cut all up near the gripper end. The bottom 4 inches has no info. I am going to play with and see what happens. I will take and run with any ideas you send me.

If you’re going to be doing any amount of this larger sheet work, I’d keep on the lookout for a 12 x 18 Kluge or C&P with a Kluge feeder. A 13 x 18 windmill would be my second choice. I’ve run oversize on my 10x15, never liked it.

Ok those with knowledge please answer me this:
Ok I tried using the advice and it worked better than I thought. I ran a 6 x 17.5 inch sheet. The best control was running to guides which worked fine, I had to watch the whip going in the make sure the sheet could flatten in time to get under the guide pin but other wise it was fine and I surpised even myself. The problem I found was when die cutting the die plate hits or compresses along the far left side raised part of the chase rail and marks the sheet. I clear the roller truck rail fine and there is no compression, it’s the raise part of the chase rail that is the issue. I think if I had a shorter die cutting plate this might just work fine.

Does the raised part of the chase rail act like a bumper or stop point for the platten. I cant figure out what the raise rail ridge is for and what purposed it is there for. I am wondering if I take a chase and grind down 1/2 but lease the top half would it still work the same or am I asking for trouble.

image: Rail.jpg


that feature on the chase is important so don’t mess with it. This ensures that on impression the platen doesn’t flex and is a support for the left side. Think of it as a bunting post. depending on the thickness of your steel jacket it should match the normal packing+ stock run thickness. If it is greater then obviously the jacket will make contact with the chase before the die.

Thank you, that was kind of what I thought. I still will try to figure out a way to make this work. It seems to only make the mark when die cutting not printing.

Can you eliminate some packing on that end, cut it short?
Or grind down that jacket where that hits.
The problem I ran into on an oversized sheet was the lay pin would nick the sheet sometimes.
Good luck.

We ran an oversized sheet, taller, with a tall pin. The tall helped to keep the sheet whip from going over the pin and mis-registering but did scar the sheet at times. The marks was in an area cutting away. The pin would mark the sheet and we just cut that area away.