Embossing, 3D Embossing and Combination dies ( Hotfoil+Embossing)

There is no “offset” counters are poured and cured directly from the embossing die. They make 2 dies when you order a combo die, leaving one as an embossing die, the other relieved to make your combo die. If you order another counter. They can make one easily with embossing die. You can make professional grade counters with the powder and methacrylate liquid. 1/2 mil mylar is often used to release cured counter from the die, but I found a “mold release” sprayed on lightly, gives me better detail in complicated images. Basic shapes and forms are usually CNC’d, but sculptured dies are made by truly amazing artists.

Thank you for the insights , Eric.
Aren’t two dies made so there is difference in the height of the male, in order to not get marks of the bottom surface of the cliche and also maybe mounting holes or holes for registration of the male counter onto the female brass die?
Because you need pretty big pressure in order to achieve nice impression, and because of that if the male isn’t taller it would copy the surface of the die when applying strong pressure.
What type of powder is that that you are talking about?
Would you recommend me some brand or more specifics so I can research about it. I am using spray mould release.

Thanks once again!

Thank you for the insights , Eric.
Aren’t two dies made so there is difference in the height of the male, in order to not get marks of the bottom surface of the cliche and also maybe mounting holes or holes for registration of the male counter onto the female brass die?
Because you need pretty big pressure in order to achieve nice impression, and because of that if the male isn’t taller it would copy the surface of the die when applying strong pressure.
What type of powder is that that you are talking about?
Would you recommend me some brand or more specifics so I can research about it. I am using spray mould release.

Thanks once again!

The “off image” area is ground down below paper level, But, not too much. Some areas, typically at the ends of Say, points of a star, or, on your image, the tips of the dragon’s horns, will wrinkle. Small bits of tape are layered on counter to bring up pressure. This adds pressure, stopping wrinkles, but showing a bit of ironing where you really dont want it, but, this is a compromise. With combo dies, the die is relieved, so the counter is not. If this type of die wrinkles, it is a difficult process to stop it.
The powder &liquid used can be found, in larger qtys, on dental supply sites. Small amounts, can be purchased on Amazon, thru a search of finger nail repair. I found a brand, “Mia Secret” to search for. The kit should give you enough to experiment with. Watch out tho! The liquid is VERY flammable and aromatic. Mix liquid first, adding powder to bring to a runny mayonnaise thickness. Have your die mounted, heated, with phenolic or glassboard mounted to platen. Once mixed, product will cure quickly. Usually within 2 minutes, so spray your die, spread Mix, and close press quickly. When the left over in your cup (white nylon) has hardened, the stuff in the press has also.

We always got 2 counters in case one got damaged. As far as I knew they were identical.

They were/are identical. For the cost, I would always order extra counter(s). Be sure to order them with a minimum of 3 alignment pin holes. It is too easy to attach backwards with only 2 holes.
Combination dies are always embossing dies first. This is when they make the counters, before they relieve the outter part of the die to work with foil. Smaller, or very intricate sculpture dies, maybe that are going to have many reruns, I would order 3-4 counters. With the acrylic powder and Methylmethracrylate solution, you can make your own, professional grade counters. But for the cost, Vs your materials and time, supplied counters are the way to go.

I have tried the powder and EMA solution, because Methyl is not sold here, however I have a problem with my release agent, I tried several different release agents like Mann Ease Release 200, Ambersil, PTFE spray (dry and wet), silicone spray and none of them work. The resin gets stuck in the brass female die. I dissolve it with acetone and try again.
Last thing I have in mind is vaseline.
I have also tried making counters with UV clear resin and results are not bad, however bubbles are forming at the very bottom, not from initial pour, but when Uv resin is being cured under light. Can the UV be too strong and boil the resin?

I don’t get to spend the companies money so one counter is what I get.
On the occasion where we have to make a counter we use Bondo body filler compound and put a piece of foil over the female die.

Foil, as a release tool is quite common. I would recommend a foil with a 1/2 mil carrier. It yields better detail. You can order, from any of the foil companies, a “blank 1/2 mylar”, it is good for this. It can also be cut and run like foil, during a blind embossing run, where ink is collecting in the die. It is usually called “Embossing Film”.
I know “Bondo” is used, so it must have positive results. I have never used these other mixes mentioned, as once I have 1-2 good options, I stick to those.
The spray release i use is specifically labeled “Mold Release”, so it may have Pressure or temperature additives that yours are missing.

Isn’t foil method as release agent applicable only for harder casting compounds like those two component materials which look like PlayDoh. If I put the liquid resin, or nail powder and liquid it is runny and it wont be able to fill the female because of the foil.
Are you familiar with a way to make locating pins and making the holes of the counter at the exact place where it’s needed? If I am drilling them together I need the hole to be at an exact depth so the pins fit right ? Or naybe I am doing something wrong. It’s really hard for me to have predrilled holes from the CNC machine on the female, cast a counter and then drill holes at the exact same place on the counter.

I’ve given up on the locating pins.
I dab some grease onto the die than stick the counter to it and wiggle it. It’s easy to tell when it nestles in position. The small dab of grease holds the counter while I mount the chaise.

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Pins are 3/16”. This is fairly universal. Drill thru die first then thru counter. Any subsequent counters can be drilled by using the die as a template.
If your powder and liquid are that “runny”, you need more powder/less liquid in your mix. Your mix should be thick enough to stay on your counter board. It may run down, but Very slowly. It is recommended to pour liquid first, but i have found that i often make way too much this way. I have good luck pouring the powder first, but need to pour liquid quickly to close mixture ratio. The mix can be adjusted with either powder or liquid, but must work quickly.
1/2 mil foil/embossing film works fine for jobs. For extremely detailed dies that will be combo stamped with foil, I use my spray mold release. It can give that slight extra bit of detail.

As far as “Not using Pins” goes, many times I choose not to. As a counter adhesive, I use mostly “Duplofol” tape. A double sided tape for this purpose. Spray adhesive could be used in guess but my concern is the counters sliding. Back to the tape. I cut the tape 1/8” in from the edges of the counter, leaving bare counter. Then I use “Scotch” tape and put a bit on all 4 sides, only using the cut away margin. Stick the counter to the die, using the tape and insure it is secure, in position, oriented correctly. Close the press, on Impression, and open. The tape can then be Gently removed from under the edges of the counter. Add your cover sheet, take a hit, and should be good to use.
On larger dies i will try to “pre-makeready”. Using a compresable stock, i check for even pressure on the die area. Makeready if something is out of wack, before pouring the mixture.