Sheet metal for die cutting on C&P

Anyone know what type of metal sheets I need for die cutting on a C&P? I have some old ones from my dad (he has no idea where they came from or what they are made of) but they are too beat up to use. I was going to order from McMaster Carr (see link below to steel sheets) but I am clueless because there are so many options. If anyone has a better source I’d love to know.

Thank you!
Whitney
gusandruby.com

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-sheets/=mgmxs3

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G’day Folks;

I’m no expert and have done very little die cutting, but I just went over to the local plumbing and heating shop and got a piece of stainless cut to the platen size(maybe a little less) and used some tape to hold it in place. Worked like a charm, as the saying goes. ( I use my C&P 8x12 NS for the die cutting). Like I say, I’m no expert but felt I should put my two cents worth in. I’m looking forward to other responses. Good luck…….db

David, damn, I could have written the exact same post!
Steve

Hi Steve and David!

I use the #9014K61 from McMaster-Carr (1075/1095 Spring Steel Strips—Full Hard Temper).

On my 12x18, I use two 6” sheets stacked side-by side for convenience and cost. I secure them with heavy tape. So long as the seam doesn’t line up with a cut in the same direction, there’s no issue. (Cutting perpendicular to the seam doesn’t cause any gaps.) I’ve put 3000+ full-sheet business card cuts against the same two sheets so far. They are beginning to show wear to be replaced, but you can’t beat them for the money.

These are thin enough to easily cut down if you’d rather have one sheet and need to buy something a few inches larger than your platen.

Hope that helps!

Best,
Meghan

Check at barplate.com, they have platen jackets pre-made for C&P sizes, along with the z-shaped assemblies for locking them under the platen bails.

http://www.barplate.com/steel-diecutting-jackets/boxmaker-jackets/snapon...

BTW, you can get sheet metal and do it yourself. Spec is typically 30/1000’s thickness. However, if you do much die cutting you’ll be glad you spent the ~$200 for a better jacket.

I use” blue spring steel” plate. It is thin and hard. make readies under this can be very specific. Google search for suppliers. I was able to find a nice person that sent me a sample. it was enough for two 14x22,and one 12x18 kluges.

I use” blue spring steel” plate. It is thin and hard. make readies under this can be very specific. Google search for suppliers. I was able to find a nice person that sent me a sample. it was enough for two 14x22,and one 12x18 kluges.

Try your local plate metal dealer to see if he has plain 10ga. black iron sheet. Dirt cheap, but unless you understand the term ‘kiss’ cut, the plate mars easily; so, however, will stainless steel. That said, ALL die-cutting - as too, printing - should be the lightest touch to achieve maximum efficiency. Of both type and/or die. Correctly made-ready, a black iron sheet will handle anything you care to give it. Remember: the goal is to separate the paper sheet - not the metal counter. :o)

Stainless steel comes in various hardness ,i like to use anything below superior hard , whilst the job should be a priority in quality terms you still have to bear in mind the life of the cutting die (often worth more than the job ) if you are careful and patient your dies should run many tens of thousands before re knife is needed , many printers always quote a job with a die price included and in reality they use a previous die from earlier work ,paying less for a re knife than a new build ,in some cases the reknife price may be all they charge on ,if they want to admit they are using a standing die .

I just use a piece of stainless steel from the local metal yard. tape it on the platen with clear packing tape and slip thin thin paper underneath till it just kisses and cuts.

this will show you how level your platen is as well. sometimes larger dies will not cut in a corner or on one side. I have leveled platens on a few platen presses with a large die like this better than any other leveling approach I tried. much better printing afterwards.

the kiss is really important. just enough of a kiss for it to cut without digging into your cutting sheet. most metal will work, but don’t go too soft like they were saying above.