Challenge-gordon disassembly

I have been trying to figure out how to take off the two wheels and I have a couple of ideas, but it seems odd that they don’t have the usual pin to hold them on. I was wondering if anyone on here has ideas about why that is or if the middle of the wheels are just caps and not the shaft and if they would know the best way to get them off.

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Can you post pictures? My Challenge-Gordon uses the same gib-head keys to fix the flywheel and gear on the shaft as are used by C&Ps and most other platen job presses.

Had to go retake them. File size was too large right away.

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Pull the smaller wheel with a large 3 jaw puller….then you are faced with the task of getting It back on. It is a very dificult procedure…even for a skilled, experienced mechanic.
I would avoid it. Do not attempt to get it off with hammers, etc.

OK, I thought you were talking about the drive shaft and its wheels, and this is a different matter. And it raises the question, how are the two wheels aligned? The studs are where the side arms sit, right? Are there keyways, flats, pins that would align the wheels during assembly?
Might be work for a large arbor press or other hydraulics.

I think i found a pin in either wheel they are just really flush and hard to notice.

Sounds/seems, very much like *Taper Pins*in which case the first line of removal has to be ascertaining which way they were inserted, (as you imply hard to see) by turning the shaft and cogs/pinions through 360 degrees and by gentle rubbing with fine file or emery cloth across the face(s) of the pins, >although hard to see,< you can determine large end/small end and drive out accordingly, with a Punch ground down to exactly cover the face of the smaller end of the Pin, with at least 1/4” parallel length clearance to chase the pin(s) out, scribed alignment marks at both ends, on both components for reassembly.
Always a good point, (If possible) on/before reassembly fit new taper pins, and beg, borrow, hire, steal or purchase (even) one or more Tapered Reamers to suit the size of the new pins,?

Usually new pins at the right size/diameter etc after reaming to true up alignment, when reamed correctly, end up protruding at both ends.! No problem and actually beneficial,?
Unless there is a clearance problem with the protrusions, left as is, usually considered useful,!

A for subsequent identification (even by the next owner) and
B. simplifies removal via a “copper” drift rather than Steel Punch.???

The wheel and gear were pressed on by a multi ton arbor press.
Removing the key Will not make it easy to renove the wheel/ gear.

I was going to try the 3 jaw puller. I had used a 2 jaw puller for the flywheel and smaller gear, the pin came with them. Is it possible that doing that without getting the key out first it will come with the wheel/gear?

The key Will slide out as the wheel slides off…no need to remove key first.
Getting it back on is also very difficult.
Can talk you through it.
James ‘mac’ McGraw

Just go slow and don’t force it right? And should I heat it up at all with a heat gun or would that only make it worse? Is there potential for it to break the smaller wheel with a 3 jaw if it won’t come off easy?