Hammond Glider motor

I had just finished one cut and was about to start another when the motor refused to turn over. It just sits there and hums/grinds loudly. The rotor turns fine by hand (with the power off). Am I right in assuming the motor needs to come off and I need to find a repair shop?

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Can you see the motor contacts/brushes? You may just need to clean them.

I have been helping lots of printers lately convert their three phase Hammond Glider 220 volt motor with a nice new 110 volt single phase motor from Tractor Supply. It has the same motor mounts, horse power, and motor arbor size so you can reuse the double pulley. Rockler Supply carries a nice black box safe switch to replace the historical one, or you can just rewire the old switch for the new motor power supply. That has been an easier solution than trying to get the old 3 Phase motors to work, plus most people don’t have easy access to 3 phase electric.

my saw does that every so often, I usually use an air hose and blow the lead chips and saw dust out of the motor.

I had a problem with my Morrison 3A saw, where the motor would drop sometimes to a lower RPM during heavier cuts. I didn’t know that the previous owner had it hard wired to a 220 circuit, and I just put a plug on the wires coming out of the conduit. When I looked at the motor wiring diagram inside the housing, I saw different connections indicated for a 110 circuit. Moved one wire I think, no problem since.

Thanks everyone. This saw has a 110 motor and worked flawlessly until today. I have been cutting a lot of MDF, plywood, and cuts. so sawdust in the motor is a real possibility. I’ll try vacuuming things out and then blowing the motor out. I don’t have a compressor…would an aerosol can of air do any good?

No Compressor, No problem, assuming and hoping that Stateside, ordinary Home use Vacuum machines are similar to here, U.K. (Generally) to produce Vacuum they have to exhaust as well, it is quite possible, with a Cooks Kitchen style Icing/Piping/Whipped cream applicator to >Jury Rig< a perfectly workable Fine Blast nozzle, (and we have) actually used the Vacuum side as VACUUM and the gentle BLAST, as that, dont even get the dust airborne., OR the carbon from the brushes.?? (IF)?

Most motors have Vents/Louvres at the mains input end,
180 Degrees apart, normally horizontal, occasionally with very fine Brass gauze for dust protection. Easy to replicate.

i.e. Small strip of Gauze as, Wrap Around over the Vents, and again back to the Kitchen,!!! over-layed with Cooks Muslin or Cheesecloth. - Trap virtually everything, in & out,!

Gauze washed out in spirit, Muslin/Cheesecloth rinsed out in warm soapy water, now and then.

OK. Turns out this motor is not the original and is sealed up pretty tightly. Found an electric motor shop in a nearby town and the diagnosis was a bad starting capacitor and needing new bearings. Kinda expensive, but I went with it and now it’s back on the saw and everything works fine.

Did have to go back to the motor shop once to get it spinning the right direction. Really annoying as I had told them when I dropped it off, but they couldn’t be bothered to write it down.