C & P Old Style 8 x 12 reassembly

Looking for a few parts and any resources that can help a novice reassemble a press that has been taken apart. I’m finding diagrams of new style but can’t find any of the old style. Maybe someone who has an old style would be willing to take some careful pictures for me and I could make my own diagrams? Also hoping for advice on best products to use after light rust removal for a letterpress. Thanks so much.

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There’s virtually no difference between the assembly (and reassambly) of a C&P old series and a new series. The only real difference, between them is that the new series has all the casting ribs inside, and the alloys are somewhat tougher; likewise, some small differences in details. If you have acquired a really old press, it will have frame connecting tie rods, instead of the one-piece side frame connecting bracket. Also, it will have the split (two-part) ink disc instead of a solid one. Just don’t lose any parts, or get too enthusiastic with mallet or wrench! Oh, and make sure that the Name Plate (which connects the roller arms) is on right side up and is perfectly tight; also that the Back Shaft is in RIGHT SIDE UP, so the letters read right side up or you’ll have to take it apart to correct it. Lots and lots of luck!

Hey- thanks for the tips Frank.

I have an 8x12 Old series press. Frank is right, there is little difference between the OS presses and the New Series presses. Mine was completely taken apart and I had relatively few difficulties with reassembly. The most difficult was attaching the rocker to large gear. the tolerances for the cam follower, etc. are tight. Having a second person around to hold things steady is a good idea. The other thing that gave me some trouble was the throw off linkage and saddle/ back shaft connection. The saddle screws are different and their position is important, and the back shaft if it doesn’t have anything stamped on it can be put in upside down/flipped left for right. On the side arms, oil holes go on top; it doesn’t seem to make a difference which side they go on, though often wear patterns will inform which went where in the past. I can take photos if you need, but generally it is pretty straightforward.

Oh and most folks swear by evaporust. It wasn’t available when I did mine so I found some stuff that turned rust into a flat black coating…looked good enough I didn’t bother painting.

The only surfaces that need to be completely rust free are the platen, bed, and important bearing surfaces, like rails cam race rocker box, etc. It’s nice if the ink table looks silvery, but not crucial.

If your rocker roller is out of the main, (big) gear and shaft is out of the press, take a moment to “run” the roller around the race way. Try it both ways as in one side out then the other. I am not sure just when they started to do it, but there is in the later models, a very slight taper to the bearing and race. Most older presses are worn enough to allow free movement either way, but check it to see if one configuration seems easier than the other.