Windmill roller arm help

It’s going to seem like overkill, but I’d recommend drilling the pin out and just replacing it with a new pin. So many of these taper pins are mushroomed on the ends that it’s basically impossible to remove them without drilling.

Brad.

Thanks Brad i will try that.

Likely too late for your job, but I have been having good success with my 5 lbs short handle sledge used as backing against the cast piece (sometimes with brass/copper ring or short pipe between), on the larger side of the taper. And then give a good hit on the smaller end of the taper pin in the direction of the pin. Mushrooming happens from too many unconvincing hits (or angled blows).

Hugo

The bitch to this job is the pins come upward to withdraw and that is easier said thean done . I often say this i hate taper pins ! Drilling them out is an option but getting the hole correct is another dog of a job too !! you must be very careful drilling as out of line holes are very unsightly on rebuild .

Thanks, Hugo and Peter. That is great insight.

I will definatelly try it.

And if drilling i supose you use the smallest drill bit possible and use another material as a guide to prevent slipping?

Would these taper pins be of standard diameter on all presses? If so, can anyone comment on the size of the pins one should order?

Parts book gives the component nos you just quote its whereabouts and the part no throughwhich it passes is sufficient .You remove them witha paralell punch that is as close in diameter to the pins small end as possible .
You may certainly need a third hand !

where ever you order your taper pins from please make sure you order METRIC sizes and make sure the hole is cleaned out before fitting the new pin, if you drill the pin out you should really reamer the hole again to make sure the new pin is a perfect fit to the hole

Order from above ,Whittenberg will supply correct fit ,there are too many pins on the market that the hardness is wrong and future removal is even more difficult .

Thanks for the comments.
Am still at it. The pin is not giving in (or out, more literally).

I tryied the heavy sledge counter force with a nut in between while hitting the smaller side of the pin fairly hard. I didnt want to hit any harder because the roller arm seems to still jolt quite a bit. would the arm’s angle shift in comparison to the other arm if hitting it too hard?

I have also been drilling but my drill bit is already blunt so will have to stop for now.

I have been weighing up whether i should leave it like that for now or is it utterly necesary to replace this part. the ball bearing fits snug into the journal and should hold the roller in place. what do your thoughts? Excessive bearing wear, what other problems will that carry on to?

who would continue to operate a press (for quite a while it seems), and damage it in this way. It was just a matter of using bloody bearings!

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If as your pic shows the surroundin parts of the bearing cup is not broken through and the bearing are able sit tight as well as the locks that prevent the roller skipping out are whole ,ie they are able to hold the ends with no chance of the roller dropping out you can carry on using the machine as is , however you should get the repair done as soon as you can ,just to be on the safe side. I am having difficulty getting on here at present but shall be available soonish!!

Peter, i thought you were busy training for the Olympics, isn’t that why you haven’t been here the last week or two???