https://www.art-boards.com/woodcutblocks.htm
“Planks of maple are edge jointed perfectly strait and glued with waterproof glue, dimensioned to .918 inches thick (letterpress height), then finely sanded on top and bottom leaving two surfaces for woodcutting and printmaking. “
Also art boards stock is face grain not edge grain. Just FYI
Also with a laser, your gonna want to shellac the type after it’s been engraved not before. You will make a mess out of your laser with burning shellac.
Any local woodworker could potentially do it for you. A good modern table saw with a carbide “planer” blade in it can make very precise cuts. If you need it to be larger than standard board thicknesses, you might want to get a board planed to type high and cut it from edge grain.:
Art Boards.com
Scott Moore will occasionally sell type high maple.
From what I understand, the stuff from artboards will require make-ready.
You can also make pretty good type from 1/8 acrylic fluted to 3/4 mdf with a sheet or two of chipboard make up the difference in height
www.art-boards.com (with a dash)
https://www.art-boards.com/woodcutblocks.htm
“Planks of maple are edge jointed perfectly strait and glued with waterproof glue, dimensioned to .918 inches thick (letterpress height), then finely sanded on top and bottom leaving two surfaces for woodcutting and printmaking. “
I haven’t tried them myself.
Also art boards stock is face grain not edge grain. Just FYI
Also with a laser, your gonna want to shellac the type after it’s been engraved not before. You will make a mess out of your laser with burning shellac.
i have not bought from Art Board, but show both end grain and face grain hard maple on its website - the end grain is more expensive
LD
Any local woodworker could potentially do it for you. A good modern table saw with a carbide “planer” blade in it can make very precise cuts. If you need it to be larger than standard board thicknesses, you might want to get a board planed to type high and cut it from edge grain.:
For the best surface, use a drum sander after planing; the planing action often leaves micro-ridges.