oil used for Heidelberg windmill

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What kind of oil are others using in their Heidelberg windmills? And, does anyone know the exact count of how many red oil holes and grease nipples there are (also yellow and green)? I’m sure I’m missing some and the paint is worn off many. Is there an oiling diagram available anywhere? None of my manuals have it.

Thanks,
Heather

Yes, colors = intervals,

Yes, colors = intervals, check the plate behind the powder spray apparatus. Don’t use grease on the windmill, only oil. Use the oil gun to fill pressure-nipples (those with a lid).

Use heavy slideway oil for lubricacation.

On Heidelberg presses, the

On Heidelberg presses, the different colors indicate frequency not type of lubrication. Red is daily, yellow is weekly, green is every six months. Oil goes into holes and nipples, grease goes into a recessed fitting using a conical-tipped grease gun (on cylinders, not sure if the platens have any grease fittings). In the US, the European oil-nipples are sometimes mistaken for Zerk grease-fittings (a bad mistake).

No paint will stick to

No paint will stick to greasy/oily surfaces, but if you degrease the immediate area and rough up the paint around the hole with a Scotchbrite pad, any oil-based enamel will work. The different colored hole probably indicate different kinds of lubricant.

Paul

Daniel Morris, thanks a lot,

Daniel Morris, thanks a lot, but i’ve seen green and yellow spots, too ;) So I don’t ask for color, I ask for paint. What paint can be used on greasy/oily surfaces and will stay there?

On page 12 of the Windmill

On page 12 of the Windmill manual (1977) it says to use Mobil Vactra oil extra heavy.
The name has been changed it is now called Mobil DTE oil extra heavy.

The oil guns are available

The oil guns are available from Heidelberg for 53.00

The oil should be Mobil DTE

The oil should be Mobil DTE oil extra heavy. Do not use motor oil. They don’t make these machines anymore, why shorten it’s life by using the wrong oil?

Max- Try red. Daniel

Max-
Try red.

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Anyone knows, what kind of

Anyone knows, what kind of paint I can use to repaint the oiling points? I have a ’53 windmill and some points are barely visible.

oil is good lol. i use a

oil is good lol. i use a marine high viscosity 90 weight lower unit oil $ 3.50 at wal mart. it sticks well and fights wear and heat and yes oh yes moisture. saftey first as i wave my knubby nidex finger.

I counted 117 oil points on

I counted 117 oil points on #2 press this morning. It’s a ‘54 vintage windmill that does it all. There is one oil point that everyone misses once a year.

Turn the motor OFF, and turn the flywheel by hand. On the fly wheel, and looking down between the flywheel and the machine body, you will see a green nut that screams “OIL ME”. Take the nut out, and squirt a little bit of heavy weight in there. Torque the nut back in, and forget about it until next holiday season. Don’t go overboard on this one, Heidelberg recommends a heavier lube annually. If you overdo it with <50 wt., you will get a spray off your flywheel — in your face and all over your stock — for the next year or so. Use the force, Luke.

I wouldn’t try to push a

I wouldn’t try to push a viscosity higher than 30 wt through the central lube on later models. Older windmills (>50 yr.) require a heavier (>40) non-detergent on all of the oil points weekly, except for those around the registration system. There, I use a thinner oil (20 wt ND) at the start of every work day.

Keep your oil points free of grime and paper dust! WD-40, and a paper clip can be used to CLEAN the oil points, but be sure to lube with a proper wt. oil before running.

The two cam riders on the R.H. side of the toggle can freeze up if not cleaned and lubed on a regular basis. Make sure they turn easily, as your registration depends on them.

As for the number of oil points on a 10X15 windmill, I have counted as many as 125. Have I missed any? Or, maybe I oiled a few points twice that day?

I use HO ISO 100 Oil which

I use HO ISO 100 Oil which you can find here…
http://www.prisco.com/

As I am also just starting I am sure that there are nipples and oil holes I am missing also. I have asked around and looked in many manuals and have not found a diagram like they offer for some other presses.

I do have an oiler like pictured above but did a little research on finding new manufacturers of this type of oiler…

I wonder if this is the correct type…
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details.aspx?identifier=guns_special&pid=...

It states that it fits this type of Nozzle Coupler…

http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details.aspx?identifier=accessories_fitti...

Any thoughts?

I am having the same

I am having the same problems right now — I know of the different colored oiling spots, but I am afraid to miss some — in my manual there is no lubrication diagram. Do you guys know of something like that? Is there something like an official repair manual by Heidelberger? Also: how much oil do you usually use per year? (hopefully not a lot ;-)

We use Mobilgear 600 XP150.

We use Mobilgear 600 XP150. It is a thick industrial gear oil that was recommended to us by the prior owner of our windmill and KS. It seems to stay put quite well and doesn’t fling too much from the gear at the left of the ink drum.

I have one & have no use for

I have one & have no use for it. You got something you want to swap? Make me some suggestions. I’m located in NC.
Bob

I do have an extra one.

I do have an extra one. Here, a picture

OK, Just what does this oil

OK, Just what does this oil gun look like?
I may have one I don’t need if what I have is it.
Bob

The best oil would be around

The best oil would be around SAE 60 NON-detergent or additives. The recommended oils are 55 to 65. The oil reservoir can hold oil as thick as 90. If you use a thin oil (under 50) it does work but, the thing is, the gravity will take it down to the floor faster …

The red nipples are daily lubrication spots. Yellow, weekly. Green, monthly. Another thing that is important is to lubricate the inside cups (open the little door in the back, with the platen open). Open the red cups and fill with oil, daily.

Don’t use any grease, or, if you like put a little bit of bearing grease (white grease) in the gear in the left side of the press, very little grease.

There is a label in the back of the press that gives you full instructions. Also, the nipples on the roller arms are red and should be lubricated daily, as per instructions, but it can be done only once a week. In the roller arms there are holes that you should lubricated daily.

Keep the registration mechanism (the parts that move the horizontal guides) lubricated daily, it is the soul of the press.
Good luck.

André

Any luck on that oil gun?

Any luck on that oil gun?

Thanks

Thanks

If I were shopping for one,

If I were shopping for one, I would first go to (donblacklinecasting.com). Good Luck.

Calvinc, Where would I find

Calvinc,

Where would I find one of those oil guns. I’ve been using another method that works but is not as efficient.

Casey
Inky Lips Press

I use (SAE 30 non-detergent

I use (SAE 30 non-detergent oil).

I think you will find that the black pump gun is not a grease gun, but an oil gun. Put the same oil in it as noted above. Be sure the press is not running when using this pump oiler to put oil on the speed clutch that is on the motor (oil nipple is right on the end of the shaft on operators side of press. Also machine should not be running when oiling anyway, for safety. Always oil - then wipe excess with a rag to keep machine looking nice.