Marred platen

I have a C&P 10 x 15 new style circa 1960ish and its een some use as a die cutter in a sign shop. The press is in good shape an dthe platen is tight but it sis pretty chewed up by the dies. Should I track down a replacemnt, have it machined flat or simply print with a jacket and take the jacket off to die cut?

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Removing the platen from the press and having it resurfaced would probably be the best plan of attack if you can find a decent machinist. I doubt you’d have to go too deep- probably just a few thousandths of an inch. Then just reinstall and level the platen and you’ll be back in action.

Learn a lesson from this: no die cutting on a platen without the press properly set up with a die jacket!

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Could I humbly submit that before you commit to finding a machinist, that taking a sanding block and working the platen down to get the potential high “boogers” off it might be sufficient to allow the press to print OK…your packing might make up any difference for the damage done by the dies…depending on how much it’s damaged.
If it were me, I’d try that first, then take it from there.
It would be cheaper. With packing & tympan on it, you wouldn’t have to look at the platen all the time, and nobody would know except you.
If it prints well, go with it. If not, find a machinist.

Dave

If the nicks are large and deep you could, after following Dave’s advice (I’d use a very hard block for the sanding so as to remove the barest minimum from the surrounding areas — the scraper (see below) might also do this OK), fill the remaining cavities with epoxy and then get a cabinet-maker’s scraper (not a paint scraper) at the hardware store and scrape the epoxy down to the surface level of the platen. That should give you a smooth surface that is flat.

Bob

I have used Devcon plastic steel epoxy to patch beds, platens, cylinders and imposing surfaces, and found it more durable and less brittle than competing epoxies PC-7 or JB Weld. A razor blade held at 70-90 degrees was all the scraper needed.

Hi Eric,

Do you recommend the epoxy over hard solder for these type of repairs? I have some small nicks in our Vandercook cylinder that I would like to smooth out.

I would hesitate to apply heat to a press cylinder. A Vandercook has a relatively thin shell compared to production presses, so I speculate that applied heat could introduce stresses into the structure of the metal. Engineers, please comment.
Plastic steel epoxy is durable, removable, replaceable, cheap.
Small nicks may not affect impression much as they are buried below the packing. Larger battered areas could be a problem that can’t be solved by DIY methods.

I agree with parallel imp
I am not a qualified body and fender repair man, but I have seen it done by craftsmen. In the old days before the invention of epoxies, the skilled craftsman could puddle molten solder over a gouge or ding in a car door (flat in the shop) and smooth it with a wooden paddle like a cake spatula. This done without distortion of the thin metal of the door. Then it was further smoothed with a body file. I would bet that you cannot find someone to do that today.
Unless it is you, listen to those who have successfully used the plastic stuff. The paper being printed does not care if it is machined flat or patched with petrified peanut butter. It only needs to be pretty flat.

I don’t use cylinder presses, my kluge has a couple of good marks from die cutting right in the center of the platen, there is packing over the platen so these marks don’t bother the printing at all, the press prints just fine. Dick G.

I had a closer look at the marring and its not as bad as I remembered. While I can see the outlines of many a die the marks are not very deep and almost in perceivable to the touch. It looks to be mainly a cosmetic thing. One less thing to worry about. Thanks all for the suggestions and feedback