My New Kimble Variable Speed Motor

I just thought I’d share my excitement with you - I picked up this amazing Kimble variable speed motor to power my 10x15 C&P last week.

Best part about it - it was free!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3i-NOg7Mko

Log in to reply   17 replies so far

Good for you. That looks liek a great motor for your press.

Jhenry

Does it get better that that? … Lucky find … preparation meeting opportunity.

Tom

Very cool, nd ya can’t beat the price. I notice your armature has a nifty cover over it. mines not. Kimble and has no cover I’ll have to see if I cn make up something like that one.

re changing to a different motor:

Respectfully I suggest when changing a motor on a press, or changing the way the motor is rigged, ensure the motor is sufficiently cooled. One of my uncles suggested dropping single drop of water onto the motor, if it sizzles vigorously, it’s too hot, but “rise of temperature” or maximum temperature would depend on the manufacturer’s specifications.

There are some responses to motor questions in reply to Printing Penguin’s query, first listed April 8; also reply to Cost Us, first listed April 20. To anyone who has had to repair motors, cooling is important as well as keeping dust out (the two sometimes conflict), you will find comments at the end of Cost Us.

Alan.

re changing to a different motor:

Respectfully I suggest when changing a motor on a press, or changing the way the motor is rigged, ensure the motor is sufficiently cooled. One of my uncles suggested dropping single drop of water onto the motor, if it sizzles vigorously, it’s too hot, but “rise of temperature” or maximum temperature would depend on the manufacturer’s specifications.

There are some responses to motor questions in reply to Printing Penguin’s query, first listed April 8; also reply to Cost Us, first listed April 20. To anyone who has had to repair motors, cooling is important as well as keeping dust out (the two sometimes conflict), you will find comments at the end of Cost Us.

Alan.

re changing to a different motor:

Respectfully I suggest when changing a motor on a press, or changing the way the motor is rigged, ensure the motor is sufficiently cooled. One of my uncles suggested dropping single drop of water onto the motor, if it sizzles vigorously, it’s too hot, but “rise of temperature” or maximum temperature would depend on the manufacturer’s specifications.

There are some responses to motor questions in reply to Printing Penguin’s query, first listed April 8; also reply to Cost Us, first listed April 20. To anyone who has had to repair motors, cooling is important as well as keeping dust out (the two sometimes conflict), you will find comments at the end of Cost Us.

Alan.

I have the exact same motor on my 10x15, and it works just fine, however, I haven’t been oiling it (or doing anything else to it). Do you know where I need to oil it, if at all? Or any other tips for maintaining it properly?

Look for grease nipples , if you cant find obvious oil or grease holes dont oil it without someone who knows have a look as motors and oil dont go well together , the carbon residues and oils clog motor components ,those with large copper commutators especially .

@megahurt note the two flip covers on each end of the motor. These cover the oil bath for the bearings. The original Kimble motor paperwork calls for Standard Oil “Atlantic Red” or oil of similar grade. It also indicates that a jingling noise when the motor is running indicates that the motor bearings need oiled. It suggests that the oil rings should remain free and carry up oil to the bearings. Visual inspection every 30 days. Also, Peter is correct in that the motor paperwork warns “Use no lubricant on the commuter, and take special care to keep oil off of it.”

Take good care of these motors. It is nearly impossible to have them rewound with period type wiring, etc. Bearings can still be found.

Our motor is original except we had to replace the cotton wove insulation covered leads. Fortunately, we were able to find period correct wire for this. The motor is in a friction drive arrangement on our NS 10 x 15 along with the Kimble “Press - O - Matic” motor controller. The motor is original to the press which dates it to 1926.

When taking the motor to a shop which repairs fractional horse power motors, you would have thought that I was driving an original 1962 convertible corvette into a car collectors shop. At one point there were about 10 guys all gathered around the motor for a peek. The owner said that normally when someone calls and says “can you work on an old motor” it is from the 60s or maybe 50s. He wouldn’t let anyone in the shop touch the motor besides himself.

The motor should have oil holes or reservoir at the ends of the casing over the shaft. Make sure you only use a lightweight oil designed for electric motors. If you use a standard motor oil it will heat up and expand, causing the motor to slow-down and stop, overloading your breakers.

Paul

Wow, thanks for all the amazing information on this motor. I now know even more to cherish it and maintain its health. I recently dropped it off at my local small electric motor shop and the owner was amazed by it. He literally had hundreds of small electric motors lining the shop’s walls, and yet, not one like it. He ended up taking it apart and thoroughly cleaning it up and gave it a full overhaul (whatever that means in the small motor maintenance world) He also gave me some special light weight oil and sent me on my way.

@phasetwo - I also have the “Press - O - Matic” controller that was originally used with this motor on my press. I’m excited to get it all wired up. I was also curious if you had a picture of your setup you’d be willing to post? I’m deciding how I’m going to mount my motor next to the press.

I do not have a picture available, but I can try to get one.

With the Kimble Press-o-matic, there were basically three options.

Friction Drive - leather motor pulley is butted against the flywheel. This option came with a motor mount that was mounted directly to the floor. The mount is a tripod configuration with a hinged rail frame on the top which the motor is mounted. There is a spring between the hinged frame and the base frame of the mount and a set screw to adjust the tension/pressure against the flywheel.

Pulley Drive w/motor rails attached to floor - in this configuration the motor is mounted to “rails” that are then in turn mounted on the floor. The press is belt driven via a pulley on the side opposite of the flywheel. The belt tension is adjusted via tension screws on the motor rails.

Bracket Mounting - in this configuration the motor is mounted to a bracket that was attached directory to the rear of the press frame. Again, the press is driven via pulley on the opposite side of the flywheel.

From your video, it appears as if your configuration is the rail mounted motor. You will notice the set screw on the front of the motor rail frame.

@phasetwo - Thanks - great info. Don’t worry about posting a pic. Your description of the various setups is ample.

I’d love to take mine to someone to help point out what is what, help clean it, etc.

What do I even search for? I assume auto mechanics might not exactly be the best idea.

Megahurt
Look in the large city yellow pages for electric motor repair. The additional words “motor rewinding” in an ad are good. It indicates they may really know about the innards of a motor. Call first and discuss.

what oil are yall running in these motors? i see 3 in 1 oil makes an electric motor oil that is an SAE 20 wt. i got a kimble 1/3 hp with my press. my wires are a little ratty that needs attention. im planning on using liquid electrical tape and then putting heat shrink on it. i notice in the video that motor has a nice junction box on the side to wire in the power cord and switch to it. i still need to figure ot how i want to mount a junction box for mine. my leads are only 8 inches long and i would like it to look as good as possible. i will be using the tripod mount for a direct drive. i also have around a 1/4 play in the shaft back and forth. the pully wheel was not butted up tp the frame. the previous owner had a nail in it for a key that precluded the bully from sitting on teh shaft fully. do these suposed to be butted up to take up the play. i dont see any flanged bearings that would prevent it otherways. does anyone have pics of there motor setups for junction boxes?

That’s certainly a nice motor. Taken care of they will last for years. I’ve been using these motors on my equipment since 1979. KEEP the bearings oiled. These have brass bearings, (sleeve bearings). You don’t won’t to run them dry of oil. They will burn out, or “wear out faster than you can turn around”. On the main end of the motor, next to the housing you will see a cover about 1/2” wide that lifts up. This is where the oil goes. Use a good quality oil. 30 wt, non-detergent is best. Both ends of the motor have these oil wells. Also, it would be good to order you a commutator honing stone from Martindale Electric. Occasionally hone the commutator to keep it clean and so the brushes will seat and make good contact. A little regular maintenance will keep these motor running forever. I was a Electric Motor Re-winder for 3-phase motors for several years. It helped keep my old Kimble Motors running. Good luck.
Winfred Reed
Black Diamond Press (Kentucky)