Double ink disk stuck.

The two disks are stuck together
on this restoration project for The KC Art Institute.
Were they stuck so the two surfaces
occupied the same plane, I would’nt much care.
I’ve removed the transfer gear.

The center disk stands proud of the larger disk
just enough to be a problem.
The two disks are fused together
with who knows what—- ink, rust, &/or dried oil?

I’ve used Tri-flow and Kroil.
Tapped the center disk through the holes in the back.
Haven’t tried heat.
I returned the transfer gear
after lubbing and tapping,
& tried to use press torque.
It just won’t turn & I won’t force it.

Normally I find a way but I’m just stuck.

My thanks for any brilliance
you can cast on this.

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Mine gets stuck if I haven’t used the press in a while. It usually responds with a few whacks of a rubber mallet. Usually on the front of the table just inside the joint. Gentle taps won’t do the trick. Neither will torque produced by the press, the gears will skip at best and break at worst. I’m not saying hit it with all your might, just something with a bit more authority than a tap.

If that’s not enough to get you unstuck, I’d try soaking the ink table upside down in some type or roller wash to loosen up the ink that is likely gluing things together.

Hope this helps.

Another thought. There should be a hole in the back of the ink table assembly. Pour some solvent in there.

I’ve only worked on a couple of these over the years and what I did may be a “no-no” — I tapped on the axle of the inner disc from the back while supporting the outer disc, like on three or so pieces of wood, the whole sitting on a solid surface. Maybe put something like a rag folded several times to cushion the disc when it drops. I suspect dry (how I did it) is better than wet, as the crud gluing the two discs together is then more brittle. You could also try heating the outer disc only with a heat gun or hair dryer to get it to expand a little, then tap it.


I don’t know how the pieces go together with a double ink disk, but if it is removable from the machine, and you have an aversion to whacking cast iron (I know I do, that stuff can be surprisingly brittle) then I would suggest throwing it in an electrolytic de-rusting bath. In addition to removing rust, it is also good at removing any grime, paint and other stuff (I’m assuming ink) from cast iron.

I imagine it would do a find job of removing whatever it is that is interfering with the fit between your two ink disks, and it causes no harm to cast iron. You might lose some paint in the process, but if you’re doing a restoration that might not be a problem.

It sounds complicated, but it’s really easy to put a setup together. A working bath could be MacGyver’ed together from just about anything.

you could try making a pond on the surface of the inner disc with plasticine or playdough or putty and filling with crushed ice, then heat the bracket and try tapping it out , however themount/ bracket wont take much punishment without brreaking .

If the pair can be removed from the press, I’d consider taking them to an engine shop or furniture-stripper who has a heated dipping tank. The paint will go, but maybe better than breaking something.

Don’t know the size of your press but I went to a big box store and purchased a plastic storage tub that would fit the disk and soaked it in a solution of driveway cleaner that is make by Zep and available at Home Depot, it came apart overnight, appeared to be dry ink and the solution melted it away. It will take off the paint. DON’T BEAT ON THAT THIN CAST IRON, IT WOULD BE LIKE DROPPING FINE CHINA ON THE FLOOR.

R P Upside down both discs in a small bath of ordinary auto diesel (best penetrating fluid for the price) bar none! Left as long as possible, removed, with hand held electric drill and 3 or 4 inch wire brush, round and round the spigot several times to put heat into outer boss quickly, with out transfer to the inner shaft. then the tapping, drifting, pressing etc methods. Apologies if this fails. But whatever, as these type of assemblies are close fit and would have left the factory with instructions probably to “remove and oil on a regular basis” which, with the fullness of time invariably gets overlooked. As there is normally no provision for introducing oil or grease under such conditions I would suggest (and have done) file a small flat on the inner shaft , the length of the shaft, to give the same band width as testing the roller clearances. On reassembly smear a little copper slip type grease onto the flat of the shaft,>>>built in permanent reservoir and absolutely no detrimental effects, and almost certain subsequent removal, whatever leaches in. Apologies to the Watch Committee. All/any comments welcome (constructive of course)

Thanks, all.

If it ever comes loose
I’ll report back on which solution got’er licked….

I’m also looking for set of grippers
for this OS 8x12 C&P jobber.