C&P New Style - Tympan Bale Rivets/Pins?

I acquired a C&P 10x15 new style press last year, and it was missing one of the tympan bales (the one closest to the feed table).

I ordered a replacement bale from Dave Churchman, but I’m not sure what to use to attach the new bale. The C&P parts list mentions “tympan bale rivets,” but there is no picture of them. Dave mentioned that I could find annealed rivets at a hardware store, but I’m not totally sure what I’m looking for.

Has anyone replaced a tympan bale, and if so, what did you use to replace the rivets/pins?

And, if I can’t find the right thing, is there any way to secure the tympan paper in any other way, for the time being? A large rubber band and some tape? The other bale works fine, and in every other way the press is ready to go, and I’d love to print this weekend.

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You could use masking tape to tape it down for a temporary fix. Dick G.

There must be holes in the sides of the platen where the rivets went. You could get a bottom tap at the hardware store and tap the holes (get the smallest size tap that will cut actual threads in the holes) and then drill out the holes in the bale for that size screws. You may need to drill the holes in the platen a bit deeper to be sure the screws have enough grip. There isn’t much stress on the bales so 1/4 inch deep or so should be deep enough. I’d use screws just long enough to bottom in the holes and leave just enough clearance so the bale can move.


While tapping the holes seems (on the surface) to be a good alternative to rivets, I did just that with one of my presses and find I’m always having to tighten up those screws as they tend to loosen. I never thought about using a thread-locking adhesive until just this moment, but that might resolve my issues.

An easier solution, however, is to use the rivets. I would think a good hardware store would have either steel or brass rivets available. If not, check out rivets on www.mcmaster.com

You need to select a rivet length just long enough to bottom out and still be a bit loose at the surface so they don’t bind the bales (just as Bob describes with the machine screw idea.

You should be able to gage the rivet diameter by trying various drill bit shanks until one fits firmly.

If you don’t find a hardware store stocking rivets, check with a good machine shop in your area. they should have an assortment in stock.

The problem I have with the rivets is that when they are set in the hole they tend to “fatten up” full length when swaged in (unless you use a split-end rivet), which means that they also “fatten up” in the hole in the bale, which thus has to be larger than the hole in the platen — and maybe it already is, if C&P used rivets originally. I suggested using a screw that would bottom out in the hole with a bit of clearance for the bale so it would jam-lock in place and not back out easily. You’d probably have to cut a longer screw to the correct length to achieve that, and Thred-Lok would probably do as good a job.


I found rivets at a hardware store that look like the originals. They fit fairly tight, but will come out occasionally when opening the bail. I suppose I could tap them with a hammer might to lock them in, but it’s not a big deal to me.

It seems to me (O Memory!) I have seen a kind of rivet used for these bales that has a tapered shank that is slightly “twisted”. I seem to recall that you could tap them in until they tightened, and the facets of the twist would sort of hold them in place.

HTH, Brian

do not use the “twisted” rivets. they will either wear your bail, or, wear the raised corners on them and your bail will loosen up. find a straight rivet as stated above. if it tends to fall out, a thread locker should hold them in. the fit should be very snug.

The Twisted Rivets (what a great name for a rock band) are essentially drive screws, and as eric indicates, should be avoided for this purpose if possible. The first poster (falsecognate) never inicated whether the rivets had pulled out or if they had been sheared off. Shearing off does happen, and would require pulling or drilling out the original rivet bodies before replacing.

Thank you for all the advice! My husband found something that worked. I will ask him to tell me again what he bought, but it wasn’t a rivet. I think he said it was a roll pin, or a lock pin. Some sort of pin. I can’t remember at the moment. Anyway, the bale is back on! It’s a snug fit.

And for the record, the original rivets were totally missing, not sheared off.

the roll pin or spring pin as it is sometimes called, should work for a long time for you